Afleveringen
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Yves Gravelle returns to the podcast to help me get stronger fingers. We talked about my current finger strength goal, how to build a 3-month training program, best joint angles for edge lifting, limiting factors, the challenge for climbers with building finger strength, forearm hypertrophy exercises, how to know when you need more rest, how to combine board sessions with finger training, repeater protocols for long boulders, process goals, and much more.
Watch the Video Interview of this episode:
EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Uncut Video
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
The NUG:
frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug
Check out my new portable hangboard design.
Crimpd:
crimpd.com
Or download the Crimpd app for free!
Rhino Skin Solutions:
rhinoskinsolutions.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
Revival Climbing Coalition:
revivalclimbing.com
EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)
Chalk Cartel:
chalkcartel.com
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/yves-gravelle-returns
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:03:59) – The 200 lb grip goal
(00:07:31) – How Yves makes a training program, the Gap Analysis, & benchmarking
(00:11:28) – Limiting factors
(00:12:15) – The Sport Audit
(00:15:13) – Joint angles for edge lifting
(00:19:19) – Specializing
(00:20:36) – The challenge for climbers with building finger strength
(00:21:18) – More on specialization
(00:22:51) – Forearm hypertrophy exercises
(00:24:58) – Lifting vs. hanging vs. overcoming isometrics
(00:30:33) – Grip positions for different goals
(00:36:07) – 20mm vs. 25mm edge training
(00:38:29) – How to build a 3-month grip training program
(00:45:56) – Yves’ edge lifting protocols
(00:53:35) – When to progress weight
(00:54:50) – Wellness questionnaire & readiness test
(00:56:20) – When to change your training schedule
(00:58:23) – When to push out of your comfort zone (i.e. The Shock Week)
(01:00:08) – Hypertrophy & long-term finger strength gains
(01:04:27) – Lazy athletes get strong
(01:05:29) – Repeaters
(01:07:44) – Changing your schedule or program
(01:10:48) – My takeaways so far
(01:12:02) – How to combine board sessions with finger training
(01:20:04) – Training for a 23-move boulder
(01:22:44) – Pacing & effeciency
(01:25:37) – Summary of my example training plan
(01:35:12) – More about repeaters
(01:40:46) – How to maintain finger strength in season
(01:48:05) – Yves’ recent grip comp & climbing goals
(01:55:22) – Yves’ gap analysis for comps
(01:57:15) – Planning & process goals
(01:59:05) – Yves’ job as a special effects artist
(02:01:06) – Yves’ YouTube channel
(02:01:54) – Climbers getting into grip sports
(02:02:47) – Outdoor rock goals & his last Hueco trip
(02:05:45) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser for Patrons
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Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 2 of 6) — In part 2, we share our top tips for training on spray walls and home walls. We cover training setup considerations, route setting tips, best apps for saving and sharing climbs, mastering benchmark climbs, how to iterate on your climbs for incremental progress, hacks for building a home wall on a budget, and more.
Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals
The NUG:
frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug
Check out my new portable hangboard.
Check out the Tension Board 2:
tensionboard.com/nugget
Or use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you.
Mad Rock:
madrock.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order.
Revival Climbing Coalition:
revivalclimbing.com
EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)
BetterHelp:
betterhelp.com/NUGGET
Use this link for 10% off your first month.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterBecome a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-2
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:20) – Best spray walls
(00:05:46) – Terrain drives technique
(00:08:00) – Choosing a wall angle
(00:10:07) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Home wall setup considerations (Use a mix of good and bad holds, a mix of textures, complement your local area, etc.)
(00:13:05) – Steven’s Tip #1: Build yourself a repertoire of quality climbs, and try to master them
(00:17:45) – Bonus Tip: Cluster holds to build skills and learn movement
(00:19:12) – Bonus Tip: Iterate on your climbs for incremental progression
(00:24:52) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Supercharge your sessions with route setting
(00:27:59) – Steven’s Tip #2: Work on climbs that are hard for different reasons
(00:28:57) – Bonus Tip: Set chaotically (i.e. Set boulders without trying the moves, and try not to tweak them)
(00:33:17) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Do not underestimate the value of a short session on a home wall
(00:35:52) – Steven’s Tip #3: Circuits!
(00:40:13) – Jesse’s Tip #4: Make wood holds to save money
(00:43:27) – Steven’s Tip #4: Set foot moves
(00:49:23) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Always trying new stuff and having crap sessions
(00:52:08) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Not having the right mix of holds for the skill level
(00:54:33) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Not keeping track of your sessions
(00:55:51) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Not stopping when you power down (i.e. climbing too much and getting injured)
(00:57:40) – Sandbagging on spray walls, and trusting your eyes
(00:59:42) – Steven’s Pitfall # 3: Only having big blobby footholds
(01:02:03) – Steven’s Pitfall #4: Not making your home wall cool (plus tips for building a cool home wall on a budget)
(01:07:32) – Quantum leaps
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Zijn er afleveringen die ontbreken?
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Dr. Amy Frugé (DPT) is a former Martial Arts World Champion, rock climber, and the founder of Converge Physical Therapy. We talked about extremity and finger pain from unusual sources, how to maintain a healthy spine, how emotions and stress affect our pain, psychedelic experiences, the pain, tension, and fear triangle, ways to empty your stress bucket, and much more.
Watch the Video Interview of this episode:
EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Uncut Videos
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Rhino Skin Solutions:
rhinoskinsolutions.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
KAYA:
kayaclimb.com
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!
PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com/discount/NUG20
Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!
Crimpd:
crimpd.com
Or download the Crimpd app for free!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/amy-fruge
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:02:26) – Pregnancy & maternity leave
(00:04:05) – Overview
(00:05:31) – Amy’s martial arts background
(00:10:21) – Confidence
(00:13:29) – Point sparring & boxing
(00:18:14) – Pivoting to climbing
(00:22:24) – How Amy’s athletic background informs her work with climbers
(00:24:25) – Starting her Physical Therapy business during covid
(00:27:13) – Radiculopathy
(00:28:59) – Elbow & finger pain from the spine
(00:39:53) – A pulley injury that turned out to be from the spine
(00:47:00) – Be careful how you snuggle
(00:49:06) – How to maintain a healthy spine
(00:52:44) – Shoulder pain & directional preference
(00:59:37) – Go-to tells of spinal issues
(01:01:15) – Finding a provider
(01:02:39) – How emotions & stress affect our pain
(01:09:08) – The bucket analogy
(01:10:23) – Pain is protective
(01:11:37) – Stress & mindset
(01:18:27) – Science vs. woowoo, & left vs. right
(01:23:09) – Psychedelic-assisted therapy
(01:27:48) – My psychedelic experiences
(01:29:26) – Another client success story
(01:36:58) – The pain, tension, & fear triangle
(01:40:54) – Ways to empty your stress bucket
(01:47:17) – Our many different buckets, & introverts vs. extroverts
(01:51:20) – Be more like a dog
(01:54:42) – Wrap up
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Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for how to climb on a training board, such as a Tension Board, Moonboard, Kilter Board, Grasshopper Board, etc. This episode contains nuggets for folks who are just getting started with board climbing, as well as seasoned board lords.
Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals
The NUG:
frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug
Check out my new portable hangboard design.
Revival Climbing Coalition:
revivalclimbing.com
EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)
Crimpd:
crimpd.com
Or download the Crimpd app.
Chalk Cartel:
chalkcartel.com
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.
BetterHelp:
betterhelp.com/NUGGET
Use this link for 10% off your first month.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterBecome a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-1
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:14) – Our board climbing experience
(00:05:42) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Treat it like training (pay attention to weekly volume and progress it slowly)
(00:07:09) – Bonus Tip: Keep board sessions short when training power
(00:10:21) – Steven’s Tip #1: Have a clear plan for your session (and develop 2-3 go-to session formats that work well for you)
(00:11:39) – Example board session formats
(00:13:45) – Wall crawls (aka crimp crawls) & Jesse’s 3x3 session
(00:15:32) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Be creative and use the whole board as a tool (use extra holds/feet to learn hard moves)
(00:22:44) – Steven’s Tip #2: Don’t be afraid to break the rules
(00:25:08) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Jesse shares his methodology for teaching V4/5 clients how to use the Moonboard
(00:29:32) – Steven’s Tip #3: Do what you can do consistently and build on it slowly over time
(00:31:38) – Bonus Tip: Work hard moves backwards, and jump from the ground to practice latching
(00:32:53) – Bonus Tip: Find a TB2 to climb on (and why I chose the TB2)
(00:34:01) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Using your board as your only form of climbing
(00:37:59) – More about wall crawls (aka crimp crawls)
(00:39:03) – More love for the TB2
(00:44:32) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Taking board grades too seriously
(00:47:49) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Using board grades to downgrade outdoor climbs
(00:49:04) – Benchmark rants
(00:50:39) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Too much too fast
(00:53:13) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Doing too much of the same thing
(00:54:44) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Doing too much off-the-wall finger training in conjunction with board climbing
(00:56:56) – One thing I like to do on the hangboard if I’m board training a lot
(00:57:48) – You need a reason to train things
(00:59:17) – Using wall crawls to maintain finger strength
(01:00:38) – Wrap up
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We're back with Fundamentals Season 2! Jesse Firestone joins me again for six new episodes covering some of the fundamental elements of becoming a better climber. In season 2, we'll dive deeper into several important aspects of training, injury recovery, and how to break plateaus. Stay tuned for more episodes coming soon.
Listen to Fundamentals episodes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals
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Allison Vest joins me to talk about the Paris Olympics! We talked about our biggest surprises from the men’s and women’s combined semifinals, our thoughts on the route setting, what defines an “electric” boulder, why speed was so great to watch, heartbreaking results, men’s and women’s combined finals, who we are most excited to see bring their Olympic fitness to the rocks, and much more!
Watch the Video Interview of this episode:
EP 233: Olympic Reactions With Allison Vest — Uncut Video
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
KAYA:
kayaclimb.com
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!
PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com/discount/NUG20
Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!
Rhino Skin Solutions:
rhinoskinsolutions.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
Mad Rock:
madrock.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/olympic-reactions
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:35) – How we watched the Olympics
(00:08:57) – Overall reaction
(00:10:58) – Power, Electric, Slab, & Coordination
(00:13:59) – Men’s final boulder 1
(00:16:39) – Surprises from the men’s semifinal
(00:19:25) – Adam Ondra & Jakob Schubert
(00:23:11) – The unknown format for LA
(00:26:10) – Olympic rules & limitations
(00:27:55) – Niche Olympic sports & pride for climbing
(00:30:28) – Speed recap
(00:35:40) – Heartbreak
(00:43:25) – Colin Duffy
(00:45:58) – Jakob’s point deduction in bouldering
(00:47:12) – Men’s final boulder 3
(00:50:31) – Toby Roberts & Sorato Anraku
(00:53:03) – What Toby’s gold means for the GB Team
(00:55:41) – Colin on men’s final boulder 4
(00:58:45) – Surprises from the women’s semifinal
(01:04:07) – The OQS series & the effects of qualifying at different times
(01:07:16) – Brooke Raboutou
(01:11:11) – Janja Garnbret
(01:19:36) – Climbers are wonderful
(01:28:24) – Women’s top 3
(01:29:24) – Will climbing grow after the Olympics?
(01:32:39) – Which Olympians we are excited to see climb outdoors
(01:41:14) – The skills of outdoor climbing
(01:51:03) – Camera angles & World Cup challenges
(01:53:29) – Will Allison compete again?
(01:54:39) – Wrap up
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Natalia Grossman is a World Champion and 3x overall World Cup winner and will compete for Team USA at the Paris Olympics. We talked about spending time in Mexico as a kid, her breakout year in 2021, dealing with public criticism, working on her mindset, how to win without being the strongest person competing, hard outdoor sends and goals, her happiest moments, her top training advice, and much more.
Watch the Video Interview of this episode:
EP 232: Natalia Grossman — Uncut Video
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com/discount/NUG20
Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!
BetterHelp:
betterhelp.com/NUGGET
Use this link for 10% off your first month!
Crimpd:
crimpd.com
Or download the Crimpd app for free!
Green Chef:
greenchef.com/nuggetclass
Use code "nuggetclass" for 50% off your first box + 50 FREE Credits with ClassPass.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/natalia-grossman
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:46) – Natalia’s parents
(00:03:08) – Spending summers in Mexico & speaking Spanish
(00:08:10) – Discovering climbing
(00:11:25) – Her breakout year in 2021 & dealing with public criticism
(00:16:44) – Facing pressure in 2022
(00:19:58) – The hardest year
(00:22:36) – Health challenges & learning to listen to her body
(00:26:42) – Learning & hobbies
(00:28:46) – Studying psychology
(00:31:04) – Finding balance
(00:37:10) – “It’s not always the strongest person who wins.”
(00:38:15) – What does it take to win?
(00:39:51) – Setters’ influence on comps
(00:42:08) – Natalia’s leadup to the Olympics
(00:45:12) – Smile & Fight
(00:50:45) – Don’t be ashamed to ask for help
(00:53:48) – Hard outdoor sends
(00:58:49) – Projecting & outdoor goals
(01:01:54) – Freezing
(01:06:17) – Why Natalia doesn’t like rituals
(01:08:11) – Competition underwear
(01:09:26) – Rapid fire questions
(01:11:42) – Gymnastics culture
(01:13:24) – More rapid-fire questions
(01:18:22) – Her happiest moment
(01:21:41) – Deep convos, training advice, & following psych
(01:25:22) – Wrap up & EXTRA for Patrons
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Colin Duffy is a 2x Olympian, 3x World Cup winner, and V16 boulderer from Colorado. We talked about puzzles, studying applied math, early competitions, joining Team ABC, getting 70th in his first open event, learning how to lose gracefully, qualifying and competing in Tokyo, how the Olympic scoring has changed, his strategy for Paris, future outdoor rock climbing goals, and much more!
Watch the Video Interview of this episode:
EP 231: Colin Duffy — Uncut Video
Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Check out the Tension Board 2!
tensionboard.com/nugget
Or use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you!
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!
rhinoskinsolutions.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
Check out Tindeq!
tindeq.com
Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order!
Check out KAYA!
kayaclimb.com
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/colin-duffy
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:02:25) – Puzzles & applied math
(00:06:32) – Mom & dad
(00:07:29) – Early comps & Team ABC
(00:11:22) – Tokyo Olympics
(00:17:15) – Strategy & scoring
(00:20:00) – The format for Paris
(00:25:00) – The World Championships in Switzerland
(00:28:05) – Youth comps
(00:30:41) – Clutch mentality
(00:33:28) – Keeping sport & life separate
(00:35:53) – Gap semester & training in Europe
(00:41:24) – 360 Paddle Dyno
(00:43:52) – Coordination
(00:49:13) – Lead training
(00:52:22) – Comp grades
(00:57:12) – Comp boulders that haunt him
(01:01:02) – Learning how to lose
(01:04:58) – His first open comp
(01:08:06) – Putting on muscle
(01:16:18) – Letting off steam
(01:18:31) – The Grand Hustle V13
(01:20:24) – Bookkeeping V16
(01:22:22) – Outdoor goals
(01:30:47) – Rapid fire questions
(01:47:45) – Wrap up
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Emma Hunt is the US speed climbing record holder and will compete in the Paris Olympics. We talked about her intro to speed climbing, how strong you have to be for speed climbing, speed training, how speed shoes compare to other climbing shoes, her mental game and strategy in comps, prejudice against speed in the climbing world, whether the speed route will ever change, why speed is cool, and much more!
Watch the Video Interview of this episode:
EP 230: Emma Hunt — Uncut Video
Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Check out Crimpd!
crimpd.com
Or download the Crimpd app for free!
The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!
betterhelp.com/NUGGET
Use this link for 10% off your first month!
Check out Mad Rock!
madrock.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!
PhysiVantage SUMMER SPECIAL!
physivantage.com/discount/NUG20
Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/emma-hunt
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:50) – Emma’s intro to climbing & speed
(00:04:08) – “I just wanna go fast.”
(00:06:48) – Keeping the fire lit
(00:09:28) – Beta changes
(00:12:08) – The Start, Dyno, and Top
(00:13:10) – Speed nerds
(00:16:19) – A rock climber first
(00:18:10) – Post-Olympic plans
(00:20:41) – How strong are speed climbers?
(00:23:25) – How speed climbers train
(00:28:42) – Training sections of the speed route
(00:30:14) – Off-the-wall training
(00:31:56) – Her coaches
(00:35:06) – Speed shoes
(00:44:59) – Other sports
(00:46:27) – Rock climbing as a kid
(00:48:27) – What makes Emma so good at speed
(00:49:58) – Pre-race rituals
(00:51:36) – Speed mental game
(00:56:37) – Olympic vs. World Cup format
(00:59:06) – Seeds & sides
(01:00:39) – Strategy
(01:05:01) – Riding waves
(01:11:28) – More about the Olympic format
(01:13:18) – Speed prejudice & Toyko combined format
(01:27:51) – Future Bouldering & Lead comps
(01:29:20) – Speed climbing in the mainstream
(01:35:22) – We celebrate gold
(01:40:39) – Barriers to speed
(01:42:30) – Emma’s fastest time & goals
(01:44:49) – Will the speed route ever change?
(01:51:56) – 50-year-old goals
(01:53:45) – Rapid fire questions
(02:07:51) – Speed is cool
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Shauna Coxsey is the most successful competition climber in the UK and the first British woman to climb V12, V13, and V14. We talked about becoming a mom, sitting in and sharing our emotions, human nature and the joy of climbing, inspiration vs. aspiration, motivation vs. commitment, competing in Tokyo, retiring from comps, sending Hazel Grace V14 in terrible conditions, pushing for her V15 goal as a mom, and much more!
Watch the Video Interview of this episode:
EP 229: Shauna Coxsey — Uncut Video
Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Check out KAYA!
kayaclimb.com
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!
Check out Chalk Cartel!
chalkcartel.com
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!
Check out the Tension Board 2!
tensionboard.com/nugget
Or use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you!
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!
rhinoskinsolutions.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/shauna-coxsey
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:30) – Frankie
(00:03:58) – Becoming a mom
(00:12:48) – Sit in and share emotions
(00:15:09) – Parenting
(00:20:15) – Support network
(00:22:06) – Shauna’s upbringing
(00:23:10) – Catherine Destivelle
(00:26:16) – The joy of climbing
(00:31:16) – Human nature
(00:34:22) – Her first big competition
(00:37:34) – Being raised by her sister
(00:40:49) – Protecting passion in kids
(00:47:54) – Frankie’s Nany, Arona
(00:52:10) – As honest as her vulnerability allows
(00:55:13) – Inspiration vs. aspiration
(00:58:34) – Motivation vs. commitment
(01:01:38) – Her proudest achievement
(01:04:12) – Hazel Grace 8B+/V14
(01:05:42) – Coming back after pregnancy
(01:12:13) – Wanting to look and feel strong again
(01:17:52) – Hips, butt, & YouTube tips
(01:24:02) – Commentating
(01:28:17) – Tokyo
(01:31:31) – 50 best 7s
(01:34:32) – Pushing for goals as a mom
(01:41:10) – The magic of being here
(01:43:19) – Any 8C/V15 goals?
(01:47:38) – Wrap up
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Josh Hadley is a leading flexibility coach in climbing and the face behind the Lattice YouTube Channel. I’ve struggled with stretching routines over the years, and this episode completely changed my flexibility training. In this episode, Josh shares his top 4 stretches for inflexible climbers and introduces key concepts like chasing horizontal, weighted stretching, tempo, contract and relax, reducing friction, best times to stretch, and more. We also covered his recent CARCing experiment and other topics. Enjoy!
Flex Master Discount:
Use code NUGGET20 to get 20% off the Flex Master Bundle
latticetraining.com/product/flex-master-bundle-stretching-tools
Watch the Video Interview of this episode:
EP 228: Josh Hadley — Uncut Video
Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Check out the Tension Board 2!
tensionboard.com/nugget
Or use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you!
Check out Crimpd!
crimpd.com
Or download the Crimpd app for free!
PhysiVantage SUMMER SPECIAL!
physivantage.com/discount/NUG20
Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!
The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!
betterhelp.com/NUGGET
Use this link for 10% off your first month!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/josh-hadley
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:03:59) – CARCing
(00:10:38) – Unstructured training
(00:12:13) – How Josh became the flexibility guy
(00:17:47) – Bringing critical force testing to Lattice
(00:25:25) – Flexibility assessments
(00:32:14) – Abduction
(00:32:44) – Buy in for flexibility training
(00:41:47) – How often do you need to train flexibility
(00:44:19) – The #1 flexibility exercise for boulderers (pancake)
(00:47:57) – Weighted & PNF stretching
(00:53:36) – Josh’s flexibility progress
(00:59:40) – Morphology limitations
(01:03:11) – Standing Pancake
(01:08:56) – Chasing horizontal
(01:13:43) – Tasking & motivation
(01:16:40) – Pancake stance width
(01:18:11) – Progressing the weight & tempo stretching
(01:24:51) – Do you have to warm up for flexibility training?
(01:27:40) – Pancake protocol
(01:30:06) – How Josh builds a flexibility session
(01:34:11) – Mobility vs. flexibility
(01:39:58) – Calve stretching
(01:46:01) – 4 stretches for inflexible climbers
(01:52:24) – Reducing friction
(01:55:00) – Stretching doesn’t have to look like climbing
(01:56:57) – PNF or contract-relax stretching
(02:00:57) – Best times to stretch
(02:04:41) – Breathing
(02:07:14) – When to switch to maintenance
(02:11:40) – What running does to your flexibility
(02:12:54) – Josh’s climbing & BJJ
(02:19:17) – The impact of flexibility on Josh’s climbing
(02:22:07) – Josh’s final advice
(02:25:32) – YouTube experimenting
(02:27:49) – Wrap up
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How are granite climbing holds made? Are there benefits to training on rock? In this episode, I am joined by Mads Bulow Duus and Pawel Rogowski from Nature Climbing. We go behind the scenes on the origin story of their brand, the craftsmanship behind their beautiful products, how to build a successful brand, training and skin conditioning on granite hangboards, the future of climbing holds, and much more!
Use Code ‘NUGGET’ for 20% Off ANY Nature Climbing Products! ▶︎ https://natureclimbing.com/
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nature-climbing
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:02:08) – Banter
(00:05:02) – My first experience with Nature holds
(00:08:13) – Glass blowing & Nature’s origin story
(00:10:56) – Early holds
(00:12:28) – Mads’ climbing background
(00:16:28) – Pawel’s marketing background
(00:25:32) – How Mads & Pawel connected
(00:27:15) – Mads’ dream
(00:28:32) – Pawel’s career pivot
(00:37:06) – Fixing the basics
(00:43:51) – Scaling a handcrafted business
(00:52:23) – Sustainability & respect
(00:55:51) – Buying holds
(00:58:33) – Who Nature is for
(01:06:53) – Developing new products
(01:09:27) – The Nature Circuit
(01:10:48) – World Cup routes
(01:12:43) – Their vision for Nature
(01:17:56) – Their dream lifestyles
(01:23:00) – Proudest of
(01:28:42) – Elevator pitch
(01:29:54) – Training on granite
(01:33:39) – Discount code
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Justen Sjong (The Climbing Sensei) is a world-class climber and coach who specializes in technique and mental game. This episode is a technique masterclass. We talk about the four stages of technique, how to practice any new skill, how to send faster, his goal to climb 9a before 60, and Justen coaches me on how to float on the wall using his drop-drive-stop method.
Watch the Video Interview of this episode:
EP 226: Justen Sjong — Uncut Video
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Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!
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Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
Check out Tindeq!
tindeq.com
Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order!
The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!
betterhelp.com/NUGGET
Use this link for 10% off your first month!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/justen-sjong
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:03:25) – Justen’s climbing background
(00:07:27) – Fear and anxiety
(00:11:30) – Some of Justen’s hardest routes
(00:14:55) – Defining “technique”
(00:18:05) – Defining “effective” & “efficient”
(00:21:14) – Reflection & confidence
(00:26:22) – Our three batteries
(00:27:24) – Four Stages of Technique: Balance, Thought, Movement, & Rate
(00:43:06) – Diving into a specific technique
(00:50:48) – Drop, Drive, Stop
(01:02:00) – How to practice Drop, Drive, Stop
(01:11:44) – Structuring practice
(01:14:28) – Pro Tip for Drop, Drive, Stop
(01:16:48) – Alex Puccio’s posture
(01:19:17) – Getting into the moment
(01:21:00) – Three questions
(01:23:45) – Shifting from thinking to feeling
(01:30:36) – How to practice ANY technique
(01:35:47) – Sending things faster
(01:44:57) – The ragged edge & perfect repeats
(01:50:43) – Board climbers
(01:54:06) – Watching & noticing
(01:57:19) – Retiring after ‘Magic Mushroom’
(02:01:13) – Justen’s big goal
(02:03:29) – What he is working on in his climbing
(02:07:47) – Closing questions & nuggets
(02:31:17) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser
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In this episode, I crack open a beer with Tony Bell and David Bress, the two founders of Revival Climbing Coalition. The two of them installed my dream home wall in 2.5 hours and I was blown away by the craftsmanship and elegance of the design. We talked about their backgrounds, how they bootstrapped a climbing wall business, what sets their products apart, the biggest surprises they faced, sustainability challenges, future products and innovations, and more!
Revival’s Adjustable Climbing Walls:
revivalclimbing.com/adjustable-climbing-wall
Revival’s Landing Systems:
revivalclimbing.com/custom-mats
revivalclimbing.com/standard-mats
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/revival-climbing-coalition
Nuggets:
00:00:00 – Intro
00:01:45 – Breakfast banter
00:04:06 – David’s background
00:09:06 – Mount Moran
00:13:09 – Tony’s background
00:16:24 – Getting into the climbing wall industry
00:21:09 – The birth of Revival Climbing Coalition
00:25:00 – What sets Revival apart
00:33:01 – The cost of the wall
00:36:45 – The board
00:39:10 – Turkeys
00:40:25 – Bootstrapping and outsourcing
00:45:12 – Biggest surprises
00:47:37 – What sets their board apart
00:52:49 – Engineered lumber
00:56:38 – Sustainability
01:00:36 – Ease of installation
01:02:38 – Gym partners and shipping
01:04:40 – The future of Revival
01:08:45 – More about landing systems
01:09:50 – What’s next for Revival
01:13:31 – Wrap up
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Jana Švecová is a professional rock climber from the Czech Republic who has emerged as one of the top female boulderers in the world. We talked about her upbringing and her early success in competitions, her pivot to outdoor bouldering, her inspiration for choosing ‘Terranova’ 8C+/V16 as a project, making the first ascent of ‘Nova’ 8C/V15, using her finger injury as an opportunity, current training, and much more!
Watch the Video Interview of this episode:
EP 224: Jana Švecová — Uncut Video
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PhysiVantage SUMMER SPECIAL!
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Check out Crimpd!
crimpd.com
Or download the Crimpd app for free!
Check out Tindeq!
tindeq.com
Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order!
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Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jana-svecova
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:02:44) – Jana’s upbringing
(00:07:18) – Quitting her job to climb full time
(00:08:38) – What inspires her about ‘Terranova’ 8C+/V16
(00:12:39) – Climbing has it all
(00:18:08) – A natural talent
(00:22:20) – Discovering outdoor bouldering
(00:25:57) – Childhood best friends
(00:30:04) – Sharing successes
(00:33:04) – ‘Nova’ 8C/V15
(00:47:56) – The frustrations of projecting
(00:50:46) – The next steps for ‘Terranova’
(00:54:02) – Using her finger injury as an opportunity
(00:58:22) – Working with her coach
(01:03:23) – Improving her shoulder strength
(01:08:09) – How her training has changed
(01:11:58) – Building a climbing wall in a second apartment
(01:15:18) – Building my own home wall
(01:17:55) – Training for ‘Terranova’
(01:30:02) – Motivation and side projects
(01:35:18) – Self-belief
(01:37:46) – Coordination and muscle memory
(01:40:37) – Harry Potter museum
(01:43:21) – Hand tattoos
(01:44:39) – Favorite post-climbing food
(01:46:15) – Ultimate achievement
(01:48:51) – Best decision
(01:53:17) – Bug snacks
(01:56:00) – Happiest moment
(01:58:58) – Silver linings
(02:03:11) – Proudest of
(02:06:47) – Favorite rock type
(02:07:22) – Go-to climbing shoes
(02:11:27) – Wrap up
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Aidan Roberts returns to the podcast! Aidan is at the cutting edge of bouldering and is one of the most genuine people I’ve had the pleasure of talking to. We talk about professional climbing and today’s media landscape, and he brings us up to speed on the last year and a half of his climbing and shares the full stories of ‘Spots of Time’ and ‘Arrival of the Birds’, two new boulders proposed 9A/V17.
We recorded this a couple of days after my chat with him and Sam on their podcast. I was honored to join them and I loved the conversation. Check it out for some reflections amongst the three of us about our podcasting and climbing.
Watch the Video Interview:
EP 223: Aidan Roberts Returns — Uncut Video
Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Check out Mad Rock!
madrock.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!
The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!
betterhelp.com/NUGGET
Use this link for 10% off your first month!
PhysiVantage SUMMER SPECIAL!
physivantage.com/discount/NUG20
Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!
rhinoskinsolutions.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/aidan-roberts-returns
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:04:59) – Recooperation phase
(00:08:18) – Powering through
(00:10:24) – Course corrections
(00:13:58) – Climbing as his work
(00:21:45) – Enduring austerity
(00:24:17) – His role as a pro climber
(00:29:28) – Our relationships with climbing
(00:35:54) – Navigating pro climbing
(00:45:44) – Valuing integrity
(00:49:11) – Climbing media & being impressionable
(00:52:51) – Reflecting on experiences
(01:04:23) – Aidan’s last year and a half
(01:08:54) – The Midnight Project (Arrival of the Birds)
(01:33:30) – Trying Burden last Fall
(01:41:47) – Ticino with Shawn Raboutou
(01:46:41) – Back to The Midnight Project
(01:50:28) – The Helvellyn Project (Spots of Time)
(02:03:39) – Training in the UK last winter
(02:07:03) – Sending Spots of Time
(02:08:18) – Sending Arrival of the Birds
(02:30:31) – Glimpsing mastery
(02:33:33) – Appreciating the places we climb
(02:38:06) – Proposing grades
(02:52:01) – Is Arrival of the Birds 9A+?
(03:08:35) – Exhausted & reexamining eating
(03:12:42) – His foot injury & next climbing steps
(03:14:23) – Plans for an EXTRA
(03:18:22) – An adventurous attitude
(03:20:04) – Burden of Dreams
(03:26:03) – Finnish bouldering
(03:32:48) – Wrap up
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Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) returns for our promised part 2! This was every bit as good as our first episode. In part 2 we focused on how to build bulletproof knees and hamstrings for heel hooks, how to prevent shoulder injuries, how to strengthen and mobilize your neck and back, some of the most common changes to climber’s bodies as we age, and more. Paul also shared helpful advice for folks who feel overwhelmed by the endless possibilities of injury prevention.
We covered fingers, wrists, and elbows in EP 207.
Watch the Video Interview of this episode:
EP 222: Paul Houghoughi Return — Uncut Video!
Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!
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Check out Fenix!
fenix-store.com
My Go-To Headlamp: HL32R-T
The Cadillac of Headlamps: HM65R-T V2.0
Check out Tindeq!
tindeq.com
Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order!
Check out KAYA!
kayaclimb.com
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!
Check out Crimpd!
crimpd.com
Or download the Crimpd app for free!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/paul-houghoughi-returns
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:03:10) – Life update from Steven
(00:11:07) – OQS banter
(00:13:34) – Recap of my first episode with Paul (EP 207)
(00:18:48) – Wrist widgets
(00:23:33) – TFCC pain & injury prevention
(00:27:41) – Knee exercises for heel hooks
(00:32:44) – Lifting straps for hamstring training
(00:35:33) – Copenhagen planks with flexed hip
(00:39:20) – Clarifying questions
(00:43:50) – Protocols for hamstring work
(00:48:52) – Nordic curls
(00:51:52) – One-the-wall rehab for knee injuries
(00:54:51) – Sumo deadlift
(00:55:51) – How to train for tweaky heel hooks
(00:58:11) – Recap of hamstring rehab
(00:59:01) – How to strengthen your neck and back for carrying crash pads
(01:08:11) – Stop firefighting
(01:10:14) – How to release tight neck muscles
(01:12:38) – Daily joint mobilization
(01:15:15) – Multifidus injury & more neck rehab ideas
(01:22:05) – Shoulder injuries
(01:27:11) – How to build bulletproof shoulders
(01:31:01) – Turkish Get-Ups and kettlebells
(01:36:03) – Doing things for a specific reason
(01:41:17) – Having a meaningful goal
(01:43:01) – Good pain vs. bad pain
(01:48:46) – Patterns in aging climbers
(01:53:20) – Good climbers vs. Olympians
(01:55:59) – Coach & clinician symbiosis
(01:58:45) – The booty thrust
(02:02:11) – Tips for aspiring Physios
(02:06:52) – How Paul maintains an 8A level
(02:11:01) – What’s next for Paul
(02:13:02) – EXTRA teaser for Patrons
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Keenan betrays his mustache by revealing its deepest secrets, and then talks about his experience with 'Insomniac' V16, his trips to Japan, what stood out to him about the Japanese climbing culture, favorite anime, home wall dreams, footwork tips, and his nearest misses while highballing and how they changed his feelings about future highballs.
Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! The full version is 57:20.
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Watch the Video Interview:
EXTRA: Keenan Takahashi — Uncut Video
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Mustache Q&A Part 1
(00:07:38) – Sticky climber
(00:09:00) – Finger strength
(00:13:29) – Aesthetics
(00:15:56) – Insomniac
(00:17:42) – Japanese climbing culture
(00:25:32) – Logistics of traveling to Japan
(00:26:33) – Anime
(00:27:07) – Realizing his potential
(00:32:23) – Home wall dreams
(00:35:20) – Ethan and Lucas
(00:37:19) – Mustache Q&A Part 2
(00:39:09) – Best climbing years
(00:42:12) – Footwork tips
(00:45:39) – Benchmark Berkeley
(00:46:14) – Shoutout
(00:46:26) – Fast food
(00:47:20) – A Little Life and highballing
(00:50:09) – Doomsday
(00:54:37) – Future highballs
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Keenan Takahashi is one of the top boulders in the world. We talked about the origin story of his clothing company ANTIGRAV, the importance of carving out space for creativity, establishing his latest V15 FA ‘The Gold Standard’, watching Sean Bailey send ‘Devilution’, unclimbed king lines in Bishop, shifting his focus to meaningful hard climbs, his stubbornness, why trying limit moves makes him a better climber, learning the macro from the micro, accessing try hard, why he started training, upcoming goals, and much more! I’ve wanted to talk to Keenan since the very beginning of the podcast, and this turned out to be one of my all-time favorite interviews.
Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Check out Arc'teryx!
Shop for my favorite approach shoes
Check out KAYA!
kayaclimb.com
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!
rhinoskinsolutions.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!
betterhelp.com/NUGGET
Use this link for 10% off your first month!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/keenan-takahashi
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:02:47) – Kalkoentjie
(00:06:22) – Buried in admin
(00:09:48) – What Keenan’s life looks like
(00:15:25) – Taking space
(00:18:08) – The origin story of ANTIGRAV
(00:28:02) – Selling an emotion
(00:32:47) – Making a climbing pant
(00:34:12) – Creating value
(00:37:56) – Exclusive brands
(00:42:12) – The small drop model
(00:47:48) – Committing
(00:49:50) – Climbing better than ever
(00:55:15) – The Finnish Line
(01:00:13) – Jimmy Webb’s development in Tahoe
(01:02:00) – Chasing dream lines
(01:03:20) – Satisfaction
(01:07:57) – 10 more things
(01:10:23) – Devilution
(01:15:51) – Unclimbed projects in Bishop
(01:18:23) – The Gold Standard
(01:43:47) – Stubbornness
(01:46:20) – Learning from one limit move
(01:49:33) – Learning the macro from the micro
(01:51:52) – What he learned from Spectre
(01:53:52) – Surrounding himself with stronger climbers
(01:55:12) – V15 at 50, and working weaknesses
(01:58:30) – Trying hard
(02:08:11) – Passion and relinquishing obsession
(02:10:22) – Cultivating fun
(02:14:47) – Measuring progress
(02:20:52) – The Dark Side
(02:23:47) – Ireland plans
(02:28:38) – Wrap up
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Alannah Yip is a professional climber from Canada who competed at the Tokyo Olympics. We talked about getting diagnosed with alopecia and the emotional journey of losing her hair, taking back her power, preparing for the Olympic Qualifying Series, lessons from Tokyo, mantras for slab boulders, her involvement with IFSC policies to prevent eating disorders and RED-S, her eating disorder as a teenager, why she plans to retire from comps, rock climbing goals, and much more!
Become a Patron
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Watch the Video Interview:
EP 220: Alannah Yip — Uncut Video!
Check out Crimpd!
crimpd.com
Or download the Crimpd app for free!
Check out PhysiVantage!
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!
Check out Arc'teryx!
Shop for my favorite approach shoes
The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!
betterhelp.com/NUGGET
Use this link for 10% off your first month!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alannah-yip
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:02:11) – Alopecia
(00:07:31) – Identity crisis
(00:11:33) – Deciding to shave her head
(00:12:55) – Taking back her power
(00:19:55) – Setting it on the back burner
(00:25:33) – Training camps
(00:30:23) – Alannah’s coaches
(00:33:47) – Training for Paris vs. Tokyo
(00:39:26) – Feelings about Tokyo
(00:42:08) – Lessons from Tokyo
(00:44:06) – Training with other women
(00:46:52) – Working on slab
(00:50:10) – The Olympic Qualifying Series
(00:55:00) – Olympic vs. World Cup lead style
(00:59:27) – Why she quit comps during college
(01:02:10) – Making the jump to World Cups
(01:04:35) – Reexamining her relationship with climbing as an adult
(01:08:54) – Engineering & coaching
(01:11:28) – Excited to retire from comps
(01:18:24) – IFSC policies to prevent eating disorders & RED-S
(01:30:05) – Self-reporting & BMI
(01:35:39) – Alannah’s eating disorder as a teenager
(01:41:53) – The turning point
(01:43:50) – Dealing with hard moments
(01:45:30) – Conflicted feelings about food
(01:48:13) – Alannah’s PSAs
(01:50:15) – My PSA
(01:53:03) – Mutual appreciation
(01:55:05) – What’s next
(01:56:24) – Rapid fire Qs
(02:01:21) – Occasionally on Instagram
(02:04:49) – Wrap up
- Laat meer zien
