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This episode explores the intricate process of diamond manufacturing, from designing and marking to shaping, faceting, and polishing. Hosted by gemmologists Simon and Lucinda, it offers detailed insights into cutting techniques, tools, and the science behind creating stunning gemstones.
End of Season One. THANK YOU FOR LISTENING.
We will be back, enjoy your summer
key topics
Diamond designing and marking
Dividing and cleaving methods
Shaping and faceting techniques
Polishing and final finishing
Tools and equipment used in gem cutting
Mastering Diamond Cutting: From Rough to Brilliant
The Art and Science of Gemstone Faceting
sound bites
"Only diamond can cut a diamond"
"Lasers cut diamonds in twenty minutes"
"Start with the pavilion, then the crown"
Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Diamond Manufacturing
02:35 The Process of Cutting Diamonds
05:13 Dividing and Shaping Diamonds
08:03 Bruting and Faceting Diamonds
10:28 The Role of Technology in Diamond Cutting
13:26 Understanding Diamond Facets and Angles
15:46 Lapidary: The Art of Gemstone Cutting
18:48 Understanding Facet Diagrams
21:24 Dopping Techniques and Adhesives
24:49 The Faceting Process Begins
28:19 Grit Sequence and Polishing
32:31 Cutting the Crown Facets
36:58 Final Steps and Reflections
39:49 Looking Ahead: Future Plans and Wrap-Up
resources
Gemology Project - Facet Diagrams - https://gemologyproject.com
Ultratech Gem Faceting Machines - https://ultratec.com
Andrew Ian Brown's Gemstone Design Books - https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Andrew+Ian+Brown+gemstone+design
Instagram - https://instagram.com/gemmology_sidiamond manufacturing, gemmology, faceting, cutting techniques, gemstone design, diamond polishing, gemmology course, gemstone tools, gemmology education
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In this episode, Lucinda and Simon explore the fascinating world of gemstone cutting and fashioning, covering essential terminology, techniques, and historical insights crucial for gemologists and enthusiasts alike.
key topics
Gemstone cutting terminology
Differences between lapidary and diamond manufacturing
Factors influencing gemstone cut decisions
Historical gem cutting techniques and innovations
Practical tips for evaluating rough stones
Gem Cutting Vocabulary
Diamond Manufacturing Process
Gemstone Cut Optimization
Review gemstone terminology regularly
Practice evaluating rough stones before cutting
Explore historical gem cutting techniques
Titles
Mastering Gemstone Cutting: Techniques, History, and Industry Insights
The Art and Science of Gem Cutting: A Comprehensive Guide
sound bites
"The old mine cut has a rich history."
"Inlays and carvings add artistic value."
"A break in gem cutting is coming soon."
Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Cutting Gemstones
03:01 The Importance of Understanding Gemstone Cuts
05:43 Insights from Gem Cutting Experts
08:26 The Process of Fashioning Gemstones
11:09 Types of Gemstone Fashioning
13:58 Evaluating Rough Gemstones
16:37 Key Factors in Gemstone Cutting
19:13 Understanding Diamond Manufacture
21:58 Historical Perspectives on Gem Cutting
24:42 Modern Trends in Gem Cutting
27:24 Conclusion and Future of Gem Cutting
29:12 Understanding Diamond Cuts and Their History
32:29 The Anatomy of a Diamond: Key Features
34:51 Exploring Brilliant Cut Stones
36:42 Step Cuts vs. Brilliant Cuts: A Comparison
38:04 The Evolution of Rose Cuts and Mixed Cuts
40:32 Fantasy Cuts: The Art of Gemstone Cutting
41:35 Cabochons: The Gateway to Gem Cutting
44:25 Beads, Cameos, and Intaglios: Decorative Techniques
46:10 Carvings, Inlays, and Mosaics: Artistic Expressions
The V&A Museum Gem Collection - https://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/gems
UK Facet Cutters Guild - https://ukfcg.org/
guest links
Instagram - https://instagram.com/facetnationgemmology
Email - mailto:[email protected].ukgemmology, gemstone cutting, gem fashioning, gemmology exam, gem cutter, gemstone shapes, diamond manufacturing, gemmology history, gemstone grading, jewellery industry
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Join Lucinda, Simon, and Michelle Mai as they explore the art and science of precision gem cutting. Discover techniques, tools, design principles, and the inspiring journey of a master gem cutter in this engaging episode.
Precision gem cutting techniques
Tools and machinery for faceting
Design principles for gemstones
Materials used in gem cutting
The journey of a gem cutter
Guest name
Michelle Mai
Titles
Mastering Precision Gem Cutting: Techniques and Inspiration
The Art and Science of Gem Faceting with Michelle Mai
sound bites
"Equipment is a huge barrier to entry"
"Polishing quartz is challenging for me"
"Start with cabochons to learn the basics"
Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Precision Gem Cutting
08:09 Michelle's Journey into Gem Cutting
10:53 Understanding Gem Cutting Machinery
13:09 The Learning Curve in Gem Cutting
15:57 Design Principles in Gem Cutting
18:57 Challenges with Different Gem Materials
21:36 Creating Unique Gem Designs
24:36 The Role of Light in Gem Performance
27:00 Inspiration Behind Michelle's Designs
29:59 Favorite Designs and Techniques
32:31 Conclusion and Future Aspirations
35:41 Exploring Favourite Materials in Gem Cutting
37:53 Natural vs. Synthetic Gemstones: A Balanced Perspective
39:48 Navigating Risk and Responsibility in Gem Cutting
44:08 Advice for Aspiring Gem Cutters
51:04 Encouragement for Beginners in Lapidary Arts
resources
Amateur Gemstone Faceting Volume One by Tom Herbst - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V4V7V4X
UK Facet Cutters Guild - https://www.ukfcg.org/
Gem Cut Studio - https://gemcutstudio.com/
Reddit r/shinypreciousgems - https://www.reddit.com/r/shinypreciousgems/
guest links
Reddit - https://www.reddit.com/user/MichelleMai
Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/michellemai/gem cutting, gemmology, precision faceting, gemstone design, gem tools, gemstone materials, gem industry, gem education
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In this episode of FacetNation, Simon and Lucinda delve into the fascinating world of tourmaline, particularly focusing on its significance in San Diego's gemstone history and the impact of the Dowager Empress Cixi on the pink tourmaline market. They explore the rise and fall of the tourmaline industry, the unique characteristics of the stone, and the methods used to identify it. The conversation is rich with historical anecdotes and insights into the gemmology field, making it an engaging listen for enthusiasts and newcomers alike. Also in this episode, Lucinda and Simon delve into the fascinating world of tourmaline, exploring its color variations, treatments, and the rise of Paraiba tourmaline as a highly sought-after gemstone. They discuss the geological origins of Paraiba tourmaline, its global appeal, and highlight famous examples, including the Ethereal Carolina Divine Paraiba. The episode concludes with a look at the stunning Liddicoat tourmaline slice, showcasing the beauty and complexity of this remarkable gemstone.
Tourmaline is a significant gemstone with various types.
San Diego has a rich history of gemstone mining.
The Dowager Empress Cixi played a crucial role in popularising pink tourmaline.
Zixi's love for pink tourmaline influenced the gemstone market.
The decline of the tourmaline market followed Cixi's death.
Testing tourmaline requires specific techniques due to its colour variations.
Tourmaline can be mistaken for other gemstones.
Historical context enhances the value of gemstones.
Gemstones often have fascinating stories behind them.
Understanding gemstone history can enrich appreciation for them. Some stones show two completely different colours.
Watermelon tourmalines need both pleochroic responses listed.
Tourmaline can be treated to enhance colour.
Paraiba tourmaline is the most valuable type.
The discovery of Paraiba tourmaline changed the market.
Paraiba tourmaline's price skyrocketed due to rarity.
Geological events created the conditions for tourmaline formation.
Nigerian and Mozambican tourmalines are similar to Brazilian Paraiba.
Famous tourmalines often have historical significance.
The Liddicoat tourmaline slice is a stunning example of tourmaline beauty.
The Allure of Tourmaline: A Gemstone Journey
Unveiling San Diego's Gemstone Secrets
The Legacy of the Dowager Empress Cixi
Tourmaline: From Mine to Market
"She banned foot binding."
"It's a serious bottleneck."
"It's called Heitorita."
"It looks like stained glass."
Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Tourmaline Part Two
02:30 Exploring San Diego's Gemstone History
05:57 The Dowager Empress Cixi and Pink Tourmaline
17:20 The Decline of the Tourmaline Market
18:22 Testing Tourmaline: Identification Techniques
22:01 Understanding Tourmaline's Colour Variations
25:01 The Treatment and Enhancement of Tourmaline
26:17 The Discovery of Paraiba Tourmaline
30:39 The Rise of Paraiba Tourmaline's Value
34:00 Geological Origins of Paraiba Tourmaline
38:25 The Global Appeal of Paraiba Tourmaline
39:05 Famous Paraiba Tourmalines and Their Significance
42:30 The Liddicoat Tourmaline Slice and Its Beautytourmaline, gemstones, San Diego, Dowager Empress Cixi, gemmology, pink tourmaline, gemstone testing, history, gem market, California tourmaline, Paraiba tourmaline, gemstone treatment, colour variations, gemmology, gemstone value, geological origins, famous gemstones, Liddicoat tourmaline
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Explore the fascinating science of gemstone colour, focusing on charge transfer mechanisms, the role of ions, and how treatments like heat affect gemstone hues. Perfect for gemmology enthusiasts and professionals alike.
key topics
Charge transfer in gemstones
Colour centres and defects
Effects of heat treatment on gemstone colour
Titles
The Science Behind Gemstone Colours: Charge Transfer Explained
Unlocking the Secrets of Sapphire and Diamond Colours
sound bites
"Blue sapphire's colour is a football match of ions."
"Charge transfer mechanisms reveal gemstone secrets."
Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Colour in Gemmology
02:53 Understanding Charge Transfer in Gemstones
05:35 Oxygen to Metal Charge Transfer
08:28 Metal to Metal Charge Transfer: The Sapphire Story
10:58 Organic Molecular Electron Transition
16:22 Colour Centres in Diamonds
22:39 The Science of Synthetic Diamonds
25:27 Understanding Green Diamonds
27:44 The Mystery of Pink Diamonds
30:48 Exploring Colour Centers in Diamonds
35:28 The Future of Gemmology and Podcasting
resources
Gem-A Gemmology Course - https://gem-a.com/education
Instagram - https://instagram.com/facetnationgemmology
Email - mailto:[email protected].uk
gemmology, gemstone colour, charge transfer, sapphire, diamond, heat treatment, colour centres, spectroscopy, mineralogy
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Join us as we explore the fascinating world of tourmaline, its formation, varieties, and historical significance, with insights from gemmologists Lucinda and Simon.
Tourmaline's chemical complexity and isomorphous series
Formation of tourmaline in pegmatites and metamorphic rocks
Varieties of tourmaline and their unique features
Historical lore and the myth of pyroelectricity
Testing and identifying tourmaline in gemmology
Simon and Lucinda
Titles
The Hidden World of Tourmaline: From Conquistadors to Colourful Crystals
Unlocking the Secrets of Tourmaline: Varieties, Formation, and Lore
sound bites
"Paraiba tourmalines glow like neon blue."
"Rubellite is the most popular tourmaline."
"Rubellite is a deep, moody red."
Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Facet nation and Personal Updates
04:26 Shout Outs and Community Engagement
08:38 Exploring Tourmaline: A Gemstone Overview
12:59 The Chemistry and Characteristics of Tourmaline
17:28 Historical Significance and Unique Properties of Tourmaline
20:26 The Science Behind Tourmaline
24:17 Formation of Tourmaline
29:24 Varieties of Tourmaline
36:40 Favourite Tourmalines and Their Unique Qualities
Instagram - https://instagram.com/facetnationgemmologytourmaline, gemstones, gemmology, mineral formation, jewellery, gem varieties, gemstone history, gem testing, gem inclusions
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This episode explores the science behind gemstone colours, focusing on dispersed metal ions, valency states, atomic environments, and their effects on colour and luminescence. Hosted by Lucinda and Simon, it combines scientific insights with personal reflections and industry tips.
Dispersed metal ions and their role in gemstone colour
Valency states of transition metals and their effects
Atomic environment and its influence on gemstone hue
Luminescence and fluorescence in gemstones
Energy transfer and electron excitation in gemology
Energy transfer in electrons
Valency and atomic environment influence on colour
Colour change effect in gemstones
Review the valency states of transition metals in your gemstone collection
Use a spectroscope to observe absorption bands and fluorescence
Experiment with heating and irradiation to alter gemstone colors
The Science of Gemstone Color: Dispersed Metal Ions and Atomic Environments
Unlocking Gem Colors: Valency, Atomic Environment, and Light
"Light as packets of energy excite electrons."
"Atomic arrangement affects gemstone colour."
"Chromium electrons jump, causing fluorescence."
Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Colour in Gemmology
02:50 Philosophical Reflections on Energy and Colour
05:31 Understanding Ions and Their Role in Colour
08:03 The Impact of Valency State on Gemstone Colour
10:47 Atomic Environment and Colour Variations
13:30 The Role of Chromium in Colour Change
16:16 Luminescence and Its Connection to Colour
18:56 Fluorescence and Crystal Defects
21:25 Conclusion and Future Topics
resources
Gem-A (Gemological Association of Great Britain) - https://gem-a.com
Spectroscope and Light Source Information - https://www.gemologyonline.com
Simon and Lucinda's Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/facetnationgemmology/gemmology, gemstone colour, dispersed metal ions, valency, atomic environment, luminescence, gemstone spectroscopy, Alexandrite, ruby, emerald
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This week we are joined by Ian Dun, president of the Gemological Association of Australia. Discover insights into gemstone grading, Australian gemstones, and the future of gemological research. Of Particular interest is GAA's, world first, Opal Studies Course. Come and listen to find out all you need to know.
key topics
Gemological education and certification in Australia
Australian gemstones: Opal, Sapphire, and more
Advances in gemstone grading and identification
guest name
Ian Dun
Titles
Unlocking the Secrets of Gemmology with Ian Dun
Australian Gemstones: A Deep Dive into Opal and More
sound bites
"Welcome to Facet Nation, a gemmology podcast."
"Opal is misunderstood and polarizing."
"Australian opal is my favourite gemstone."
Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Facet Nation and Ian Dun
01:52 Ian Dun's Gem Story and Career Path
08:49 The Gemological Association of Australia: History and Courses
12:55 Diploma of Diamond Technology and Practical Grading
21:42 The Online Opal Course: Development and Purpose
23:39 The Journey of Opal: From Mine to Market
27:36 Understanding the Opal Course: Structure and Feedback
29:21 The Allure of Opal: Personal Perspectives
34:19 Opal's Renaissance: Trends and Design Innovations
38:19 Research and Future of Opal Studies
40:39 Exploring Other Australian Gemstones
52:32 The Future of Gemmology: Education and Career Paths
Resources
Gemological Association of Australia - https://www.gem.org.au/Opal Course - https://www.gem.org.au/courses/opal-studies/
CIBJO Opal Guide - https://www.cibjo.org/
keywords
gemmology, gemstones, Australian gemstones, gemstone grading, gemmological education, opal, diamond, jewellery design, opal study, educationSupport the show
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Explore the fascinating world of physical optics in gemstones, focusing on iridescence, thin film interference, and the science behind colour phenomena like labradorescence and opalescence. Perfect for budding gemologists and enthusiasts alike.
key topics
Physical optics in gemstones
Iridescence and wave interference
Thin film interference in gem materials
Unveiling Gemstone Colours: The Science of Iridescence and More
The Hidden Physics of Gemstone Beauty: A Deep Dive
sound bites
"Iridescence is caused by wave interference."
"Labradorescence is due to the chemistry of feldspar."
"Pearlescence results from stacked layers of aragonite."
Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Physical Optics
02:09 Understanding Iridescence
11:00 Exploring Twin Planes and Their Effects
14:11 The Fascination of Labradorescence and Adularescence
20:03 The Nature of Light and Colour
21:06 Exploring Rainbow Moonstone
22:28 The Allure of Pearls
25:06 Understanding Iridescence in Pearls
28:27 The Mystique of Opals
36:52 Reflections on Quality and Value in Gemstones
resources
Facet Nation Podcast - https://youtube.com/@facetnationuk
guest links
Instagram - https://instagram.com/facetnationgemmology
TikTok - https://tiktok.com/@facet.nation.pod
Email - mailto:[email protected].ukgemmology, physical optics, iridescence, labradorescence, opalescence, gemstone science, thin film interference, gemstone phenomena
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This episode explores the fascinating world of coral, its history, types, and significance in gemmology. Hosted by Simon and Lucinda, it covers everything from the biological origins of coral to its cultural importance and modern regulations.
sound bites
"Polyps are tiny creatures related to sea anemones."
"Coral structures are like a living family tree."
"Black and gold coral are rare and often bleached."
key topics
Definition of organic materials
History of coral harvesting and trade
Types of coral: precious, soft, fossilised, black and gold
Identification and authenticity of coral in jewelry
Regulations and sustainability in coral trade
Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Coral and Organic Materials
02:53 The Importance of Organic Materials
05:14 Coral Fishing in History
07:57 Understanding Coral Polyps
10:32 The Journey of Coral Harvesting
13:03 Regulations and Sustainability in Coral Harvesting
15:33 Coral as a Jewelry Material
18:03 Types of Coral and Their Significance
21:50 Identifying Coral: Key Features and Characteristics
24:33 Understanding Soft Coral: Misleading Names and Textures
26:42 Fossilised Coral: The Transformation Process
28:20 Exploring Black and Gold Coral: Unique Properties and Origins
32:17 Coral Conservation: The Impact of Overfishing and Regulations
34:44 Closing Thoughts: The Beauty and Importance of Coral
resources
Gemmology by C. D. M. Roberts - https://www.amazon.com/Gemmology-C-D-M-Roberts/dp/XXXXXX
CITES - Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species - https://cites.org/
Coral Museum in Naples, Italy - https://www.coralmuseumnaples.it/
https://instagram.com/facetnationgemmology
guest links
Instagram - https://instagram.com/facetnationgemmology
TikTok - https://tiktok.com/@facet.nation.pod
coral, gemmology, organic materials, jewellery, coral harvesting, coral types, coral regulation, fossilised coral, coral history, coral identification
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In this episode, Lucinda and Simon explore the fascinating world of gemmology instruments, focusing on colour filters like the Chelsea colour filter and pleochroism testing methods. Learn how these tools aid in gemstone identification and enhance gem cutting techniques.
Educational
key topics
Colour filters in gemmology
Chelsea colour filter purpose and use
Pleochroism and its significance in gemstone identification
Testing for pleochroism with London Dichroscope and calcite dichroscope
Importance of light source and gemstone orientation in testing
Natural vs synthetic gemstone identification techniques
key frameworks
Colour absorption principles
Pleochroism and optical anisotropy
Gemstone orientation and cutting strategies
Titles
Mastering Gemstone Identification: The Power of Colour Filters and Pleochroism Tests
Unlocking Gem Secrets: Chelsea Filter and Pleochroism in Gemmology
sound bites
"Record your observation by stating the colour scene."
"Always think about why you're looking at the stone."
"Share your pleochroic observations with others."
Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Colour Filters in Gemmology
01:55 Understanding Pleochroism and Selective Absorption
05:27 Testing for Pleochroism with the London Dichroscope
10:34 Comparing the London Dichroscope and Calcite Dichroscope
15:36 Documenting Pleochroism Observations
17:35 Understanding Gemstone Colours and Pleochroism
20:04 The Chelsea Colour Filter: A Gemstone Testing Tool
26:23 Practical Applications of the Chelsea Colour Filter
28:50 Identifying Gemstones: Colour Responses and Observations
resources
Gem-A - https://www.gem-a.com
Pleochroism in Gemstones (Book) - https://www.amazon.com/pleochroism-gemstones
Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/facetnationgemmology
Email - [email protected].uk
gemmology, colour filters, Chelsea filter, pleochroism, gemstone identification, gem testing, gem cutting, gemmology tools
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This episode explores the fascinating world of jadeite, covering its geology, colours, treatments, cultural significance, and the latest gemological insights. Hosted by gemmologists Lucinda and Simon, it offers a deep dive into one of the most revered gemstones across cultures.
key topics
Jadeite vs Nephrite
Colours and Varieties of Jadeite
Treatments and Impostors in Jadeite
Cultural Significance of Jade in China and Central America
Geology and Formation of Jadeite
Titles
Jadeite Unveiled: 10 Facts Every Gemologist Should Know
The Hidden World of Jadeite: From Burma to Central America
sound bites
"Imperial Jade is the poster child for jadeite"
"Mining jadeite involves cutting into massive boulders"
"Testing includes SG, hardness, and visual clues"
Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Jadeite
02:54 The Complexity of Jadeite
05:43 Understanding Jadeite's Properties
08:39 The Formation and Sources of Jadeite
11:20 Cultural Significance and Jewellery of Jadeite
14:08 Impostors and Imitations of Jadeite
18:40 Testing and Identifying Jadeite
26:46 Exploring Literature and Its Influence
28:01 Understanding Specific Gravity in Gemmology
29:59 Testing Gem Hardness and Its Implications
31:30 Refractive Index: A Key to Gem Identification
33:28 The Complex World of Jade Treatments
39:14 Cultural Significance of Jade in China
51:31 Jade's Historical Importance in Central America
Resources
Gem-A (Gemological Association of Great Britain) - https://gem-a.com
Real Jade Co. - https://realjade.com
Instagram - https://instagram.com/facetnationgemmology
jadeite, gemmology, gemstones, jade, mineralogy, treatments, cultural significance, Guatemala jade, gem identification
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Join us as we explore the journey of jewellery designer Andrew Geoghegan, from childhood fascination with treasure to creating innovative collections inspired by history and nature. Discover insights on craftsmanship, branding, and staying authentic in a digital world.
key topics
Andy Geoghegan's early fascination with treasure and jewellery
The journey from university to professional jewellery design
The importance of authenticity and personal style in branding
Inspiration from history, nature, and personal experiences
Challenges and insights in modern jewellery marketing
guest name
Andrew Geoghegan
Titles
From Childhood Mischief to Jewellery Mastery: Andrew Geoghegan's Creative Journey
Unlocking the Secrets of Gem Setting and Jewellery Design
sound bites
"That moment sparked my love for jewellery"
"The use of colour in jewellery is about expression"
"Finding that relic was like discovering treasure"
Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Andrew Geoghegan
01:20 The Journey Begins: Early Memories of Jewellery
02:57 From Art College to Jewellery Design
09:10 Building the Brand: The Early Days
11:32 Navigating Challenges and Perseverance
16:22 The Digital Age: Marketing Jewellery Today
23:56 Design Inspirations and Client Connections
30:08 The Art of Craftsmanship in Jewellery
34:06 Innovative Use of Colour in Jewellery Design
36:59 Embracing Individuality in Gemstone Choices
37:21 Inspiration from Nature and History
42:33 The Thrill of Treasure Hunting
48:44 Launching the Treowth Collection
resources
Susannah King on Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/susannahkinglondon/
The Detectorists (TV Series) - https://www.netflix.com/title/80064446
Gemology Resources - https://www.gia.edu/
Jewelry Design Books - https://www.amazon.com/s?k=jewelry+design
guest links
Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/andrewgeoghegan/
https://andrewgeoghegan.com/
jewellery design, gemmology, jewellery collection, craftsmanship, branding, authenticity, goldsmithing, gemstone, jewellery inspiration, digital marketing
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Join us as Wim Vertriest, head of field gemmology at GIA, shares his journey from geology to gemmology, insights into Mozambique rubies, and the fascinating science behind gemstone origin determination. Discover how field gemmology connects geology, anthropology, and the gemstone trade to deepen your understanding of these precious stones.
Key topics
Wim Vertriest's journey from geology to gemmology
Insights into Mozambique ruby deposits and mining practices
The role of field gemmology in understanding gemstone origins
Scientific techniques for gemstone identification and origin determination
The impact of Mozambique rubies on the global gemstone market
Guest name
Wim Vertriest
Titles
The Science and Secrets of Mozambique Rubies: An Interview with Wim Vertriest
From Geology to Gemmology: Wim Vertriest's Journey at GIA
sound bites
"Gemmology is about understanding the whole ecosystem."
"Heat treatment leaves subtle but detectable clues."
"My favourite gemstone is the Cat's Eye Chrysoberyl."
Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Guest Background
02:57 Wim's Journey into Gemmology
05:19 The Role of Field Gemmology
07:55 Understanding Gemstone Origins
10:14 Geological Mysteries of Rubies
12:39 The Impact of Mining on Gemstones
15:12 The Evolution of Consumer Awareness
17:43 Building a Reliable Gemstone Collection
20:30 The Multidisciplinary Nature of Field Gemmology
23:04 Exploring the Origins of Sapphires
24:09 Field Gemmology: Balancing Lab Work and Expeditions
26:03 Research-Driven Gemmology: Filling Knowledge Gaps
27:39 Emerging Trends in Gemstone Popularity
29:24 The Challenges of Diamond Origin Determination
30:37 Identifying Gemstones: The Art of Exclusion
33:23 Declassifying Misidentified Stones
39:55 The Canary in the Coal Mine: Ruby Heating Experiments
44:18 The Chemistry of Gemstones
46:47 Advanced Techniques in Gemmology
48:08 The Rise of Mozambique Rubies
52:42 The Evolution of Ruby Mining
58:42 Changing Perceptions of Rubies
01:01:11 The Future of Gemmology
resources
GIA Official Website - https://www.gia.edu
Gems and Gemology Journal - https://www.gia.edu/gems-gemology
Mozambique Ruby Mining Insights (Report) - https://www.gia.edu/mozambique-ruby-report
Wim Vertriest's Profile on LinkedIn - https://www.linkedin.com/in/wimvertriest
Guest links
LinkedIn - https://www.linkedin.com/in/wimvertriest
GIA Profile - https://www.gia.edu/wim-vertriest
gemmology, gemstones, Mozambique rubies, gemstone origin, field gemmology, GIA, gem research, gemstone mining, gemstone identification, gem science
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In this episode of Facet Nation, Simon and Lucinda delve into the fascinating world of gemmology, focusing on the spectroscope and its critical role in identifying gemstones. They discuss the different types of spectroscopes, techniques for using them, and the importance of diagnostic spectra in gem identification. The conversation is rich with insights into the nuances of color absorption and the practical applications of these tools in the field. The hosts also share personal anecdotes and tips for gem enthusiasts, making the episode both informative and engaging.
Takeaways
The spectroscope is essential for identifying gemstones.
There are two main types of handheld spectroscopes: prism and diffraction grating.
Using a spectroscope can help you understand how gemstones absorb light.
Techniques for using a spectroscope include transmitted and reflected light methods.
Diagnostic spectra are crucial for identifying specific gemstones.
Understanding colour absorption helps in gem identification.
The spectroscope can be used on both rough and polished stones.
Learning the diagnostic spectra of gemstones is beneficial for gemmologists.
The conversation emphasises the importance of practical experience in gemmology.
Future episodes will cover more advanced topics in gemmology.
"We're going to talk about the spectroscope."
"It's a really good one."
"You can't see it, but it's there."
Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Recent Finds
02:06 Exploring the Spectroscope: A Gemmologist's Tool
11:16 Understanding Dispersion and Diffraction in Gemstones
18:39 Techniques for Using the Spectroscope
22:31 Diagnostic Spectra and Their Importance
26:53 The Art of Writing and Dashes
29:41 Understanding Spectrums: Zircon and Ruby
32:18 Emerald and Alexandrite Spectrums
35:03 Synthetic and Natural Sapphires
37:28 Exploring Iron Spectrums in Gemstones
40:03 The Spectrum of Garnets and Jadeite
42:42 Cobalt Spectrums: Spinel and Glass
45:31 Rare Earth Elements and Red Glass
47:59 Diamonds and Their Unique Spectra
gemmology, spectroscope, gemstones, diagnostic spectra, colour absorption, gem identification, gemmology techniques, gem enthusiasts, gem collectors, gemstone analysis, gemology
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In this episode of the Facet nation gemmology podcast, Lucinda and Simon explore the intricate world of colour in gemstones. They discuss the significance of colour in determining the value of gemstones, the science of light and how it interacts with materials to create colour, and the chemical elements responsible for these hues. The conversation also covers the colour wheel and its relevance to gemstones, the methods of analysing gemstones through spectroscopy, and the perception of colour. The episode concludes with a teaser for future discussions on more complex topics related to colour in gemmology.
Takeaways
Colour is the most important aspect of coloured gemstones.
The value of gemstones is influenced by colour, history, and trends.
Light is essential for colour perception in gemstones.
Selective absorption determines the colour we see in gemstones.
Eight chemical elements are responsible for colour in gemstones.
The colour wheel helps understand colour relationships in gemstones.
Not all light sources are suitable for gemstone analysis.
Spectroscopy is a key tool in analysing gemstone colours.
Understanding the science of colour enhances appreciation for gemstones.
Future episodes will explore more complex topics in gemmology.
Titles
Exploring the Colour Spectrum of Gemstones
The Science Behind Gemstone Colours
Sound bites
"Everything comes back to light."
"Not all white light is created equal."
"If there is no light, does colour exist?"
Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Colour in Gemmology
01:50 The Importance of Colour in Gemstones
04:34 Understanding Light and Colour
09:11 Chemical Elements and Colour
12:29 The Colour Wheel and Its Application
16:15 Spectroscopy and Light Sources
21:16 Conclusion and Future Topics
gemstones, colour, light, spectroscopy, chemical elements, colour wheel, gemmology, ruby, sapphire, emerald
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In this episode of Facet Nation, hosts Lucinda and Simon welcome gem cutter Justin K Prim, who shares his fascinating journey from music to gemmology. Justin discusses his experiences in the gem trade, the art and science of gem cutting, and the importance of community in the field. He also delves into his favorite gemstones, the challenges of the trade, and his exciting new projects, including a gem cutting school and a museum showcasing his extensive collection of machines and books.
Find out more:
https://www.magusgems.com
https://www.facetingapprentice.comTakeaways
Justin transitioned from a career in music to gem cutting.
He discovered the gem trade through a local gem show.
Lapidary clubs play a crucial role in learning gem cutting.
Emeralds are Justin's favourite gemstones to cut.
The gem cutting process requires patience and attention to detail.
Community support is vital for aspiring gem cutters.
Justin emphasises the importance of creativity in gem cutting.
He is excited about his new gem cutting school and museum.
The gem trade is evolving, with a growing appreciation for well-cut stones.
Justin's books aim to educate and inspire future gem cutters.
Titles
From Music to Gemmology: Justin K Prim's Journey
The Art of Gem Cutting with Justin K Prim
Sound bites
"I want to keep cutting."
"I love cutting emeralds."
"It's a mystery."
Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Guest Introduction
01:13 Justin's Journey into Gem Cutting
05:19 Discovering the Gem Trade
09:06 The Evolution of Gem Cutting Community
11:45 Getting Started in Lapidary
14:47 The Art of Gem Cutting
16:18 Moving to Bangkok for Gemmology School
20:20 Building a Career in Gem Cutting
23:07 Life in France and the Gem Business
25:47 The Process of Cutting a Gemstone
27:01 The Art of Preforming and Cutting Gems
29:54 Polishing and Final Touches in Gem Cutting
31:54 Exploring Different Faceting Techniques
33:43 The Journey of Learning and Experimentation
36:30 Building a Gem Cutting School and Museum
38:15 The Passion Behind Gem Cutting and Teaching
42:29 The Evolution of Gem Cutting Techniques
47:32 Historical Insights into Gem Cutting
52:36 The Importance of Quality in Gemstones
54:57 Understanding Coloured Stones vs. Diamonds
56:28 The Journey of a Gemstone Buyer
58:53 Emotional Connections in Jewellery Making
01:04:48 The Art of Cutting Gemstones
01:06:23 Future Plans and Collaborations
gemmology, gem cutting, gemstones, lapidary, gem trade, gem cutter, gem education, gem collection, gem stories, gem enthusiasts, books, gem history, museum
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In this episode of Facet Nation, hosts Lucinda and Simon interview Jeff Hapeman, owner of Earth's Treasury, who shares his unique journey from academia to the gem industry. Jeff discusses the fascinating world of Montana sapphires, the challenges and opportunities within the gem market, and the importance of ethical sourcing and cutting techniques. The conversation highlights the growing popularity of coloured stones and the evolving consumer preferences in jewellery design. In this engaging conversation, Jeff Hapeman discusses the intricacies of gem cutting, the inspirations behind his jewellery designs, and the fascinating world of photomicrography. He shares insights into the judging process for the Gem-A Photographer of the Year and reflects on his experiences with Montana sapphires, emphasising the beauty and uniqueness of gemstones.
Takeaways
Jeff transitioned from academia to gemmology after realising academia wasn't for him.
Earth's Treasury focuses on American gemstones, particularly Montana sapphires.
Montana sapphires offer a unique variety of colours and qualities.
The gem industry faces challenges with sourcing and environmental regulations.
Jeff emphasises the importance of ethical sourcing in the gem market.
The rise of coloured stones reflects changing consumer preferences.
Gem cutting techniques can significantly affect the appearance of stones.
There is a growing awareness of the importance of quality cutting in coloured stones.
Jeff believes that coloured stones are becoming more popular among younger generations.
The future of gemmuology will likely see continued growth in the colored stone market. The pavilion angle needs to be steeper for optimal performance.
Jewellery is bespoke and designed specifically for each stone.
Sphene is a captivating gem with unique dispersion.
The Garnet Supernova necklace was inspired by a collector's love for Art Deco.
Colour is a key element in trendy jewellery designs.
Photomicrography reveals the intricate beauty of gemstones.
Judging photography involves assessing technical skill and aesthetic appeal.
Montana sapphires are mined in limited quantities, often yielding smaller stones.
Patience and persistence are essential in gemstone photography.
The journey of a gemstone from rough to finished piece is a labor of love.
Titles
The Art of Gem Cutting: Insights from Jeff Hapeman
Design Inspirations: Crafting Unique Jewellery
Sound bites
"I try to minimise the waste."
"They look awesome."
"I love all gems equally."
Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Guest Introduction
03:24 Jeff Hapeman's Unique Journey into Gemmology
08:41 The Birth of Earth's Treasury and Business Evolution
12:14 Montana Sapphires: A Gemstone Revolution
19:55 The Appeal of Coloured Stones in Modern Jewellery
23:29 The Future of Diamonds and Coloured Gemstones
27:41 Exploring Unique Garnets and Tourmalines
29:02 Innovative Cuts for Montana Sapphires
31:35 The Art of Precision Cutting
33:30 Designing Jewellery with Timeless Inspiration
37:50 Creating Signature Jewellery Designs
42:38 The World of Photomicrography
47:41 Judging the GemA Photographer of the Year
49:26 The Art of Inclusion Photography
52:06 Patience in Photography and Nature
53:24 Experiences in the UK and Gemmology
56:14 Self-Publishing and the Journey of a Book
58:11 The Reality of Sapphire Mining
gemmology, Montana sapphires, Jeff Hapeman, Earth's Treasury, gem cutting, coloured stones, jewellery design, gem industry, gem tren
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In this episode of Facet Nation, Simon and Lucinda delve into the intricacies of the refractometer, a crucial tool for gemmologists. They discuss its importance in identifying gemstones by measuring the refractive index, emphasising how light behaves when it enters different materials. The hosts share personal anecdotes and practical tips for using the refractometer effectively, including the significance of using the right light source and the challenges posed by contact fluid. They also highlight common pitfalls and best practices to ensure accurate readings, making the episode both informative and engaging for listeners interested in gemmology.
Throughout the conversation, Simon and Lucinda provide insights into the technical aspects of the refractometer, such as total internal reflection and the importance of clean surfaces. They also touch on the emotional aspects of studying gemmology, sharing their experiences with exam preparation and the sense of community among gemmology students. The episode concludes with a light-hearted discussion about the challenges of using the refractometer and the importance of practice in mastering this essential tool.
Keywords
gemmology, refractometer, gemstone identification, light refraction, gemmology tools, refractive index, gemmologist tips, gemmology podcast, optical properties, gemstones, gem testing, light and optics, education, science
Takeaways
The refractometer is essential for identifying gemstones.
Using the correct light source is crucial for accurate readings.
Practice makes perfect when using the refractometer.
Keep the glass table of the refractometer clean to avoid inaccurate results.
Understanding total internal reflection is key to using the refractometer.
Titles
Mastering the Refractometer: Essential Tips for Gemmologists
Unlocking the Secrets of Gemstone Identification with the Refractometer
Sound bites
"Not having a refractometer is like going into battle with a spoon."
"Sodium yellow light is the agreed upon standard."
"When in doubt, get your refractometer out."
Chapters
00:00 Introduction to the Refractometer
01:52 Understanding Refraction and Its Importance
04:53 How the Refractometer Works
10:22 The Role of RI Fluid in Testing
14:10 Interpreting Shadow Edges and RI Readings
19:08 Birefringence and Its Significance
22:56 Identifying Uniaxial vs. Biaxial Stones
25:24 Understanding Biaxial Materials
28:13 Distant Vision Reading Techniques
32:52 Practical Tips for Using a Refractometer
36:29 House Rules for Refractometry
41:30 Final Thoughts on Refractometer Use
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In this episode of Facet Nation, Lucinda and Simon discuss their experiences preparing for and taking the Gem-A exams, particularly focusing on the diploma exam. They share personal anecdotes about their study strategies, the unique challenges of the Gem-A exams, and tips for managing exam anxiety. The conversation covers various aspects of preparation, including the importance of understanding the material deeply, utilizing practice papers, and the significance of real-world application in gemmology. They also reflect on their experiences during the exam days, offering insights into the practical and theory components of the exams, and conclude with advice for future candidates.
Exams can be stressful, but preparation helps alleviate anxiety.
Gem-A exams are known for their difficulty and require deep understanding.
Different study methods work for different people; find what suits you best.
Real-world application of gemmology knowledge enhances understanding.
Start preparing early to build a solid foundation of knowledge.
Utilise flashcards and practice papers for effective revision.
Stay calm and organised during the exam to maximise performance.
The invigilators are supportive and there to help you succeed.
It's normal not to doubt yourself during the exam; trust your knowledge.
Post-exam discussions can help clarify doubts and reduce anxiety.
Navigating the Gem-A Exam Experience
Mastering Gemmology: Exam Strategies and Insights
Sound bites
"I was really worried about the practical."
"You can get two wrong and still pass."
"I still have dreams about it."
Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Exam Season Anxiety
02:38 Understanding GEM-A Exams
05:31 Preparing for the Diploma Exam
07:53 Study Strategies and Techniques
10:47 Real-World Application of Gemmology
13:27 Tips for Early Preparation
15:51 One Month Out: Focused Revision
18:48 The Importance of Practice Papers
21:29 Final Week Preparations
24:16 Day of the Exam: Priorities and Mindset
32:07 Navigating Exam Day Challenges
37:19 Exam Preparation Strategies
41:31 Experiencing the Exam: Insights and Reflections
51:56 Coping with Post-Exam Anxiety
55:39 Final Thoughts and Advice for Future Candidates
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