Afleveringen
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This is the weekly column
Thanksgiving is the great American gastronomic holiday. Halloween is for foolishness, costumes, and candy. Christmas is for worship, family, and unseemly lust for gaudily wrapped material goods (somewhat antithetical to the Christian origin of the holiday).
Thanksgiving is the quintessential harvest feast. Turkey and ham and cranberry sauce and corn on the cob and cornbread and pumpkin pie and whatever else you can conjure up from the cornucopia of agricultural abundance the good Lord bestows on American tables.
The wine: pinot noir. I know arguments can be made for zinfandel and Bordeaux blends (American Bordeaux blends), even some whites and rosés. All well and good and maybe part of the groaning Thanksgiving sideboard of excess of everything. But if you want one wine for this bacchanalian extravaganza, it is pinot noir.
Pinot is among the lightest of the red wines. It thus works well with a wide array of foods you conjure up for your Thanksgiving feast. It is especially suited for turkey, goes very well with ham. The stronger California versions of pinot can hang with slow-cooked brisket. It especially is nice for family members put off by tannic, assertive red wines. Thanksgiving is a meal of comity and convaiviality. Pinot noir encourages that.
Pinot noir is a famously fickle grape, also one of the oldest varieties used for winemaking. The Catholic church was critical to its development beginning in monastery vineyards in the 6th century, then specifically named in the early 1300s. It spread to Germany as spĂ€tburgunder and in Italy as pinot nero. Franceâs Burgundy region is the cathedral of pinot noir, but Californiaâs Russian River Valley and Oregonâs Willamette Valley now produce some of the worldâs best pinots.
Pinot noir is a challenging grape due to its thin skinâthus its reserved tanninsâand susceptibility to various viticulture challenges. It is called the âheartbreak grapeâ for a reason, which means pinot noir can be expensive. It also is worth it for your biggest gastronomic celebration of the year.
Tasting notes
âą Project M Wines Personify Oregon Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley AVA 2022: Delicate, silky on initial attack, rising to power, complexity later in the palate. $40 Link to my review
⹠Dobbes Family Estate Eola-Amity Hills Cuvée Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2021: Excellent fruit effort. Nice tang, clean, precise, complexity, length. $45 Link to my review
âą Soter Vineyards Estates Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon 2021: Juicy, concentrated flavors. Plush, complex, elegant, impressive structure, length. Warm vintage well played by Soter, producing a more assertive pinot noir that you anticipate from Willamette. $55-63 Link to my review
Last round
What did the farmer say when he accidentally squashed his pumpkin? Oh my gord! Wine time.
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It takes two to four centuries to grow the oak tree for a wine barrel. Then, after tree harvest, four, usually more, years to season the wood and the staves. Finally, it is time to turn the staves into a wine barrel.
Staves are planed into the correct shape, tapered and beveled to fit exactly together. A master cooperâthe barrel makerâarranges 30-32 staves in a circle held together by temporary hoops. At this point, the future barrel resembles a flower with the bottom of the staves together and the tops splayed out.
The âflowerâ then is toasted over an open oak fire and sprayed with water to soften the wood and make it pliable. A cable system draws the splayed ends together to create the iconic barrel shape, with very careful attention to the grain of the wood.
The basic barrel shape then is âtoastedâ over an oak fire to develop flavors and aromas. This is a key part of the operation. The amount of the flameâlight, medium, or strongâdetermines the character of the barrel. Low toasting emphasizes fresh fruit and elegance, while strong toasting delivers smoke, coffee, vanilla, crĂšme brĂ»lĂ©e, butterscotch, meats, and other flavors.
At the same time, heavy toast makes for silkier, softer tannins because heavy toast breaks down the oak tannins. Smoke is another characteristic of heavy toasting. Heavy toast is often used for big, bold red wines that can stand up to the oak influence. Heavy toast also can require longer aging for the flavors to integrate and add complexity to the wine.
In addition to how the barrels are treated, the type of oak also influences the wine. French oak produces a more subtle and delicate influence, but more tannin structure and mouthfeel. American oak imparts flavors more quickly and adds roasted coffee, coconut, sweet spice and more robust oak.
Cooper making wine barrelâCreative Commons
French, American, and eastern European oak all contribute oak nuances. The different origins of the oak deliver various levels of the oak influence.
The bottom line is wine is an agricultural productâgrapes and wood. It also is the work of human hands and experienced minds.
Tasting notes
âą Funckenhausen Malbec Blend, Mendoza, Argentina 2022: Vibrant, juicy full-bodied malbec-led blend. Argentine wine with hint of German heritage. $12-16 (1-liter bottle) Link to my review
âą The Prisoner Wine Company Saldo Red Blend 2019: Dependable celebration of ripe zin with supporting cast. Big, powerful, not quite as high alcohol as previous vintages, but still up there are 15% ABV. $32 Link to my review
Last round
A pregnant woman began shouting: âCouldnât, wouldnât, shouldnât, didnât, canât, donât!â She obviously was having contractions. Wine time.
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Wine is an agricultural product. Hardly an earth-shattering revelation. But consider its scope. Not just wine vines, as essential as they may be, but in many casesâtrees.
Wine and wood have a marriage dating back millions of years. Wine vines are tree climbers, a relationship accelerated after the astroid-Armageddon when 75% of all plant and animals species became extinct. Trees and grapevines survived and flourished in the aftermath.
Fast forward to recent times and the intimate nexus of wood and grape juice becomes more significant. Not only do/did trees provide grape vines a trellis upon which to climb to sunlight, they provide flavors and nuances for finishing wine.
Time scales underscore the magnificence of wine creation. Vines must grow for three years before they deliver anything useable as wine fruit, and 20 or 30 or 100 years for the best. Forests are even more long term. Better quality oak in France and America are at least 200 years old, best longer than thatâtop French oak comes from 400-year-old trees. Think of that. Wood that enhances and finishes the quality wine you drink today began when the American Revolution began. George Washington could have seen the sapling that grew to make the barrel used in making the red wine in your glass tonight.
Just as there are grapes of varying quality and characteristics, so with oak trees. Wood factories divide raw product according to quality. Oak designated for wine barrels cannot have flaws, so only around 20% is used for wine barrels. The remaining wood goes for furniture, home construction, and other products.
After seasoning for several years, wood destined for wine barrels is sawed into staves. Staves are evaluated for grain and flavor. Smell is important here as staves of different flavors and smell are used depending on what characteristics the winemaker intends. Then staves age two or more years before they go into the cooperage to be fashioned into barrels.
Just as winemakers blend grapes from different plots and different grape varieties, so do barrel makers blend different types of oak, different types of wood grains, and other variables. The variable of grain ranges from extra fine grain to big grain. The tighter the grain, the lesser the micro-oxygenation, which is the interaction between the juice inside the barrel and the atmosphere outside the barrel. There is no one-size-fits-all answer. It depends on what sort of wine the maker wishes to make.
Once staves are cut, they go to the cooperage. Another complex story.
Last round
A fool and his money are soon parted, especially in a wine bar.
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Some facts and trivia to lighten your mood as we prepare for the horrors of âfall backâ when the government gives back the imaginary hour it stole from us on the second Sunday in March.
âą Do heavier glass bottles indicate higher quality wine?
Glass weight does not affect wine quality. But there has long been a marketing illusion that better wines come in heavier bottles, and winemakers have tended to put their premier efforts in heavier bottles. But so have lesser wines been put into heavy bottles so sellers can charge more. Happily, there is a mounting movement to reduce bottle weight, which cuts down on CO2 emissions and shipping and other costs.
Symington Family Estates recently switched to lighter bottles for its Cockburnâs Port line. Their new 750 ml bottle weighs 450g down from 585g. Other wineries, especially for wines not made for aging, have shifted to cans and âjuice boxesâ for even greater savings.
âą Will the LED lights in my wine cellar cause light strike in my wine?
UV light and heat are enemies of wine, especially in long-term storage. Traditional lights give off UV and heat. Good news is LED lights give off minimal heat and almost no UV radiation.
âą What do the fancy names for bubbles in Champagne mean?
âMousseâ generally refers to the overall fizziness, also the frothy head at the top of the glass. âPerlageâ is French for a string of pearls and refers to the column of bubbles rising in the glass. âBeadâ basically means the same as perlage.
âą What are the most planted wine grapes in the world?
This answer changes and reporting is not uniform, but best answer in 2024 is cabernet sauvignon is the most planted red and chardonnay is the most planted white.
âą How do you open a bottle with a wax seal?
Ignore the wax seal. Plunge the corkscrew through the wax and pull. When the cork is pulled, the wax will fall away. Just before you fully remove the cork, you can clean up any wax debris if needed.
âą What does the wine descriptor âracyâ mean?
Racy is more a style, not a descriptor of quality, smell, or taste. It basically means a wine with vibrant, fresh acidity. While it most often is associated with white wine, red wines can be racy, too. Racy is a positive comment and indicates the wine will âcleanse the palateâ and work well with food.
Last round
A friend asked me how much I spend on a bottle of wine?
I said: âAbout 45 minutes, longer with a meal.â Wine time.
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Halloween is next week, but if you are giving wine advice itâs best to give your audience some time to act on it.
First, I know of no decent pairing of wine with treacly sweet trick-or-treat candy. With somewhat less sugary candy, you can go with light, sweet wines. Wine must be at least as sweet as the candy.
If the treat is dark chocolate, you have real options. Dark chocolate typically contains 50-90% cocoa solids. The higher the percentage of cocoa, the better to pair with wine. Vintage or ruby port, sherry, and marsala are classic fortified wine pairings. Non-fortified pairing wines include zinfandel, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and New World pinot noir.
If you are not part of the child extortionists plot, you can always enjoy the frivolity of an adult costume party and real wine pairings. Charcuterie boards work well with almost the entire panoply of wine. If you are enjoying a full regular meal, the usual food-wine pairings apply.
When you get to dessert, dark chocolate is in play. With pumpkin pie there are several choices:
âą Mascatel sherry. Its honey, caramel, and raisin notes nicely pair with the pie.
âą California chardonnay. A full-bodied chard with plenty of oak, butter, and vanilla flavors will work especially nicely with pie crust.
âą Tawny port. Nutty and dried fruit flavors complement the pie.
âą Oloroso sherry. Sweet, nutty flavors match with autumnal flavors of the pie.
âą Late harvest gewĂŒrztraminer. Nutmeg, vanilla, and cinnamon flavors in this sweet wine complement spices in pumpkin pie.
âą Riesling ice wine. Sweetness and acidity work with the pieâs rich, creamy textures.
As with candy, the key is the wine must be at least as sweet as the pie. In fact, that is a good rule of thumb for all wine and food pairings.
Now you are set for the last day of October ordeal or fun fest, however you roll. Answer the doorbell, pay off the kiddos demanding tribute, practice moderation, wake up the next morning to prepare for the next holiday.
Tasting notes
âą Cockburnâs No. 1 Special Reserve Porto NV: Delicious, approachable. The worldâs most popular special reserve premium port. $18-20 Link to my review
⹠Lustau East India Solera Sherry: Fascinating interplay of tangy, salty notes of oloroso grapes (80% of blend), sweetness of pedro ximénez grapes. $22-28 Link to my review
Last round
This Halloween I decided to go as a harp. At the party, a gentleman asked, âwhat are you supposed to be?â
âA harp,â I replied.
âNo, no,â he protested. âYouâre too small to be a harp.â
âSo,â I asked, âare you calling me a lyre?â
Wine time.
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Newsletter: gusclemens.substack.com
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Links worth exploring
Diary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.
As We Eat Multi-platform storytelling explores how food connects, defines, inspires.
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This is the weekly column
October begins the 17th year of this wine column. Reflections.
âą Quality wine is made by grape farmers in a vineyard, not by lab coats in a winery. When this column started, I could enjoy mass production wines manipulated by oak and tartaric acid and Mega Red. As years and tasting passed, my palate grew to more appreciate wines truer to place and variety. Supermarket mass production wines have their place, but as your wine odyssey unfolds their role diminishes.
âą Wine is more complex and interesting than you can grasp in a lifetime. Anyone who claims to know everythingâor almost everythingâabout wine just proved they do not. Wine is an infinite FabergĂ© egg. Opening each shell presents you with a more beautiful and fascinating layer.
âą Texas wines would get there. My first publisherâof a Texas newspaperâspecifically told me to avoid writing about Texas wines. They were hard for readers to buy. Winemakers struggled to find grapes and cellar practices that worked in Texas. No more. Texas wines have made enormous strides. They compete on quality and are beginning to compete on distribution. They tend to be somewhat overpriced, but sell out because of the proud loyalty of Texans. If Texans will buy $18 wine for $25 dollars, Texans will sell it to them. Then use profits to elevate their wine to be worth $25.
âą If you enjoy a wine, it is good wine for you. Ignore my and others opinion of it. I stated that in the first column. I believe it more today.
âą You never run out of things to write about. Early on, people worried I would exhaust my subject. Not close to the truth. I have written more than 800 columns, all posted on my website. Not a single repeat. No expectation whatsoever I will run out of material.
âą Supercilious tasting notes and wine scores are ridiculous. Sixteen years ago, I bet people wanted to know about wine. How it is made. The people who make it. The places it is made. What the jargon meant. With tens of thousands of readers around the world, I remain all-in on that bet. If you come to me for a pithy sentence and some score on a 100-point scale, you came to the wrong place.
My writing career has taken me many places. Sports editor of a major newspaper. Author or participant in some 20 books. A successful advertising agency owner. This column remains a beloved highlight in that career, and I deeply appreciate your being part the journey.
Last round
What washes up on tiny beaches? Microwaves. Wine time.
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Balanced Diet Original recipes, curated links about food systems, recipe reviews.
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Scare headlines: âDrinking any alcohol is a cancer risk.â Well, okay, the question is how much of a risk?
In this discussion, remember the adage popularized by Mark Twain: âThree types of lies. Lies. Damn lies. And statistics.â Stories about cancer risk with alcohol often can be taken with a grain of salt.
No question alcohol can put you at a greater risk of cancer. But how much greater risk? That is where the statistical hanky-panky emerges. A popular reference comes from the Canadian Centre on Substance Use and Addictionâs 2023 Guidance on Alcohol and Health: Final Report. A bottom line: limit consumption to no more than two alcoholic drinks a week.
The devilish detail is the comparison of no-alcohol risk and the risk of some alcoholâusually two glasses of wine a day. Here are the findings:
âą The breast cancer risk for no-alcohol females is 17.3 of 100,000 deaths (1.73%). Two-a-day drinkers increase their risk to 22 of 100,000 deaths (2.2%).
âą The colorectal cancer risk for no-alcohol people is 9.2 of 100,000 deaths (.92%). Two-a-day drinkers is 11.1 of 100,000 (1.1%).
âą The liver cancer risk for no-alcohol people is 3.2 of 100,000 deaths (.32%). Two-a-day drinkers is 3.6 of 100,000 deaths (.36%).
âą The oesophagus cancer risk for no-alcohol people is 1.5 of 100,000 deaths (.15%). Two-a-day drinkers is 2.1 of 100,000 deaths (.21%).
The statistical trick is to state increased risk in relative terms, not absolute terms. Breast cancer risk is 17.3 of 100,000 among non-drinkers and 22 of 100,000 for drinkers. The increase in drinkers is 27% measured in relative termsâ22 is 27% more than 17.3. In absolute terms, the increase is .47% (17.3 plus .47 equals 22). If a woman drinks two glasses of wine a day, she increases breast cancer risk by less than one-half a percent.
That is the reason the anti-alcohol zealots harp on relative and not absolute numbers. One is alarming but misleading. Two-a-day female wine drinkers do not increase their death rate by 27%. They increase their cancer chances from 17.3 per 100,000 to 22 per 100,000.
No one argues that excessive alcohol does not pose significant health risks. But misleading the public about the risks of moderate consumption is not the way to affect this issue. Go ahead and have that glass of wine with your meal tonight. It is very unlikely to kill you. And the bonhomie you enjoy with that meal has its own benefit of increasing joy and enriching your life, which studies show helps prolong life.
Last round
What do elves use to make sandwiches? Shortbread. Wine time.
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If you go into almost any wine shop, liquor store, or supermarket wine section in the United Statesâand now in most places in the worldâyou will find wine bottles arranged and named by the variety of grape used to make the wine.
When the bottle contains a predominant percentage of a single grape variety (generally 75% in the U.S., 85% in Europe) it can be labeled as a varietal wine. It has not always been that way, and you have an iconic American wine family to thank for the change.
The classic naming convention came from Old World wine countriesâFrance, Spain, Italy, Germany, and other European countries. The name came from the appellationâBordeaux, Burgundy, Rioja, Priorat, Chianti, Barolo.
Sophisticated wine drinkers understood designations. Bordeauxâblend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and a few other grapes. Burgundyâpinot noir. Riojaâtempranillo. Prioratâgarnacha and carignan. Chiantiâsangiovese. Baroloânebbiolo.
When California wines stunned the world at the Judgment of Paris in 1976 the contestant wines were identified as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, but that was not the norm. Back then, many American wines were labeled with names like âClaretââcabernet sauvignon, maybe. âBurgundyââpinot noir, maybe. âHearty Burgundyâânot pinot noir, but a blend of zinfandel, petite sirah, and carignan. âChampagneââany sparkling wine made any way, to the fury of winemakers in the Champagne region of France. The Mondavi family, led by Robert, realized most Americans were just getting into wine and needed something simpler. When Robert left the familyâs Charles Krug operation to found his own winery in 1966, he began labeling his wine by the variety used. For the most part. When it came to sauvignon blanc, then considered dĂ©classĂ©, not the hot white it is today, Mondavi blinked and appropriated its French name âPouilly-FumĂ©â to create âFumĂ© Blanc,â a blend of mostly sauv blanc with a splash of sĂ©millonâbut with enough sauv blanc to be labeled as a varietal. Today, it is among the wineryâs best sellers.
The American naming revolution largely won the day. Old World wineries still use their historical names, but likely you can read the varietal or variety-blend somewhere on the label. Almost every New World wine will carry the varietal or variety-blend information.
The revolution made figuring out wine easier for people to figure out. And is an important reason for wineâs unprecedented increase in popularity the past half century. Thanks, Bob.
Last round
My English teacher looked at me and said: âName two pronouns.â I said: âWho, me?â Wine time.
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Winemakers: To oak or not to oak, that is the question. Whether âtis nobler in the mind to suffer the slings and arrows of outrageous fortune, or to take up oak to craft your wine to shake the spheres of ordinary.
Oak and wine were made for each other. The wood and how it is treated introduces flavors compounds and textures. Oak barrels allow slow oxygenation, which engenders complexity and depth. Malolactic fermentation in oak converts tart malic acid into softer lactic acid, creating a creamier, buttery texture. The winemaker must decide if oak is in the wineâs future. For some whites, the answer is no. For reds, usually yes.
Next decisionâwhich oak to use. There are some 600 species of oak trees. They are divided into two main groups: red oaks and white oaks. In North America alone there are about 90 native species.
American white oak (Quercus alba) has wide grain and high levels of lactones, delivering flavors of vanilla, coconut, marshmallow, volume, creaminess, and sweetness. It usually receives a medium toast (flame treatment inside the barrel). It often is used for bold winesâcabernet sauvignon and petite sirahâbecause its robust flavors and higher oxygen ingress complement such wines.
European white oak (Quercus petraea) has finer grains. It has a more subtle influence on wine than American oak and imparts elegant flavors of vanilla and spice, and thus is preferred for lighter winesâpinot noir and chardonnay. The tight grains also mean a more measured integration of flavors, often preferred for premium wines. At medium toast, French oak imparts notes of coffee, chocolate, leather, and mushrooms. Wine must spend more time in French oak than American oak to attain these flavors.
Eastern European oak, particularly from Slovakia, Hungry, and Romania, are similar to French oak. They can be more subtle than French oak and provide more delicate flavors.
Bourbon barrels are another category, pioneered in the 20th century by Chilean mega-maker Concho y Toro with its American label, 1000 Stories. It involves using American oak, blackened and heavily charred to make bourbon and whiskey in first use. In second use with wine, the barrels deliver caramel, burnt sugar, dried herbs, coffee, and vanilla. Wine finished in bourbon barrels are only part of a blendâaround five percentâbut add smoothness and another layer of flavors with hint of its bourbon back story. They also are a booming category in wine because they are smooth and delicious. Wood you not be interested in trying this category?
Last round
I only know 25 letters in the alphabet. I donât know Y. Wine time.
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What makes a great wine? There is a hard and fast answer: âgreat wine comes from great vineyards.â
What makes a great vineyard?
âą Terroir. This is big net answer because the French term includes soil composition, climate, topography, even the culture and experience of the vineyard-winery workers.
âą Soil. Different grape varieties thrive in different types of soil. Merlot is particularly suited for clay soil that holds water. Cabernet sauvignon prefers gravelly soil that drains well. Chardonnay enjoys limestone soil. Sauvignon blancâs ideal is sandy loam. The mineral content of the soil also can enhance character and complexity.
âą Climate. Well, of course. In particular, diurnal shiftâthe change in temperature from day to nightâis a precious quality. Hot day engenders ripeness and tasty fruit, while cool nights develop balancing acidity.
âą Topography. In cool climates in the Northern Hemisphere south-facing slopes maximize heat and sun exposure. In warm climates, east, north, or northeast facing slopes help avoid overheating. Water drainage, slope, and elevation all can play a part.
âą Vineyard management. When nature gives you advantages, it is up to you to make the most of them. That includes decisions on farming methods. What to plant and how to plant. Pruning and canopy management are vital, a task that demands experienced vineyard workers.
Where do these elements exist? The glory of wine, engendered by wine grape diversity, is there are places all over the world where you can make good wine. From the drenching rains of Minho province in Portugal to vineyards in the Atacama Desert in Chileâthe driest place on earthâto the cold climes of the Niagara Peninsula and Okanagan Valley in Canada, clever humans have figured out what grape variety, vineyard configuration, and management decisions work in their special place in creation.
After the interplay of these elements in the vineyard, the job of making great wine then falls to the artistry of winemakers. There is an almost universal agreement among great winemakers: their job is to largely stay out of the way and allow the vineyard to express itself. After all, âgreat wine comes from great vineyards.â
Tasting notes
âą Serego Alighieri Possessioni Garganega e Sauvignon del Veneto 2021: Fresh, fruit-forward blend of garganega (the main grape of Soave) and sauvignon blanc. $20 Link to my review
âą DeLille Cellars MĂ©tier Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley 2021: Bold but approachable. Saturated with dark fruit flavors. $23-30 Link to my review
âą Texas Hills Vineyard Sangiovese, Texas High Plains, Newsom Vineyards 2015: Delicious Texas interpretation of the great red grape of Tuscany. Almost decadent ripeness. $25 Link to my review
Last round
Thank you for explaining the meaning of âmany.â It means a lot to me. Wine time.
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Links worth exploring
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Wine is your friend, especially when sipped with friends during a convivial meal. You are obliged to protect it from its enemies.
Classic factors that negatively impact wine quality:
âą Oxygen. Exposure to oxygen can be wineâs valued friend or its mortal enemy. The key is moderation. Readers know of my advocacy of decantingâexposing wine from a freshly opened bottle to air to soften tannins, blow off odors, integrate elements. That exposure is relatively brief, measured in minutes or small number of hours. It is a common technique for red wines that also can improve some whites.
But too much oxygen is the most significant threat to wine. Too much during the winemaking process can darken white wines to a brownish hue and rob red wines of vibrant color, shifting them into orange or russet shades. Too much oxygen in opened wine will flatten its flavors and aromas. Eventually it will turn the wine into vinegar.
âą Light. Ultraviolet light, both from the sun and artificial lighting, degrades wineâs flavors and aromas. That is why many wines come in dark bottles and should be stored in a dark environment.
âą Heat. Higher temperatures accelerate aging and eventually spoil the wine. One telltale sign of excessive heat exposure is a cork that has lifted, also leakage of wine out of the bottle. It is best to store wine between 45 and 65 degrees F, with 55 degrees the ideal.
âą Vibrations. Constant movement disturbs sediment and messes with the aging process. This especially is important for wine put down for aging.
âą Humidity. Some humidityâ70% is idealâhelps keep corks from drying out. Too much humidity will not affect the wine, but can lead to mold growth that damages labels.
These are things to think about, but not to obsess over. Wine is a tough hombre. Even when abused by oxygen, light, heat, vibrations, and humidity, it usually remains drinkable. It just will not deliver the same tasty pleasure you get when you treat it right.
Tasting notes
âą Chateau Ste. Michelle Dry Riesling, Columbia Valley 2021: Incredibly delicious. Ste. Michelle has delivered this amazing value, wonderful riesling for years. $10-14 Link to my review
⹠Vallformosa Mistinguett Brut Rosé NV: Simple, safe, tasty sparkling that will offend almost no drinker or any pocketbook. $14 Link to my review
âą Trefethen Family Vineyards Estate Grown Chardonnay, Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley 2021: Mellow, well balanced, classic Napa chard, well-done oak and malo. $28-33 Link to my review
âą Compris Vineyard Midnight Journey Syrah, Chehalem Mountains AVA 2021: Savory, smooth delight scores all points you look for in a syrah. $50 Link to my review
Last round
What kind of exercise do lazy people do? Diddly-squats. Wine time.
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Wine snobbery is a detestable trait. But you can be a âgoodâ wine snob. Hereâs how.
âą Respect the preferences of others. Never be condescending or judgmental. Basically, donât be a jerk. Good advice for many situations.
âą Be a life-long wine learner. Wine knowledge is vast and ever-evolving. Anyone who claims to know everything about wine just proved they do not. That applies to you and your fellow wine drinkers.
âą Enjoy wine. Wine is a palate pleasure, not a vehicle to flaunt status or a way to show off. Geez, please.
âą Accept and appreciate the preferences of others. If you want to be a âgoodâ wine snob, work on âtasting through someone elseâs mouth.â Who knows, you may have an epiphanic moment and discover a whole new lane of delectationâmaybe you will find something you like that you did not expect to like.
âą If someone asks for wine advice, gently guide rather than dictate. Sublimate the tyranny of your proclivities. Instead, facilitate helping others find their own wine way.
âą Celebrate diversity. There are thousands of wines made thousands of ways. That is wineâs wonder and glory. It is not your way or the highway. If it is your way or the highway, then donât let the door hit your butt on the way out to travel that lonely road.
âą Explore new horizons. When you celebrate diversity, you may stumble upon pleasures you never expected. That is the wonder of wine.
âą Patience is a virtue in almost all things, including wine. Allow others to learn about wine at their own pace, and allow yourself to do the same.
This column strives to entertain and inform you about wine. Sixteen years ago, I wrote in my first column: âIf a wine tastes good to you, then itâs good no matter how a wine expert responds.â I have stayed true to that proposition, and suggest you do the same. Thank each of you for being part of the journey.
Tasting notes
âą J. Lohr Los Osos Merlot, Paso Robles 2021: Soft, creamy, plush mouthfeel, gains subtlety with exposure to air. Not complex, just a delicious, easy drinker. $12-17 Link to my review
âą San Simeon Sauvignon Blanc Paso Robles 2023: Bright, refreshing, good acidity, vivid fruitâall you want from a sauv blanc from long-time quality maker. $18-20 Link to my review
âą Invivo X SJP Sarah Jessica Parker Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand 2022: Exciting, edgy NZ pinot. Real collaboration between quality maker and celebrity. Good texture and complexity. $19-27 Link to my review
Last round
What do you call Dracula when he has hay fever? The Pollen Count. Wine time.
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Even if you only dip your big toe into wine wonkiness, you likely encounter the term âmalolactic fermentationâ or MLF. What is that?
Well, this being wine, it actually is not fermentation, which involves yeast. It is a conversion, which involves bacteria. The primary bacteria is Oenococcus oeniâtry saying that three times in a row after a couple of glasses of wine (or even before). The process is a decarboxylation conversionâmalic acid turns into lactic acid. What does that mean in words of less than five syllables?
Malolactic conversion reduces acidity and softens the taste of wine. It almost always is done with red wine. It usually is done with white wines where a rounder, creamier profile is wanted. Chardonnay is classic example, as are viognier, marsanne, roussane, and white Burgundy. On the other hand, MLF usually is prevented in sauvignon blanc, pinot grigio/pinot gris, riesling, vermentino, and other whites where acidity and floral aromas are prized.
Wineries encourage MLF by inoculation of bacteria and control of temperature (warmer is better), acidity (lower is betterâabove 3.3 pH), and avoiding sulfur dioxide. Wineries discourage MLF by keeping temperatures lower, keeping pH less than 3.3, adding sulfur dioxide, sterile filtration, and other methods.
If you enjoy a full-bodied, creamy, buttery, smooth chardonnay, you have MLF in an oak barrel to thank. If you prefer tangy fruit, great acidity, the powerful aromatics of sauvignon blanc or riesling, you have the prevention of MLF to thank.
Almost all red wines undergo MLF. Some beaujolais nouveau wines skip MLF. Italian amarone typically does not undergo MLF. Just about every other red has MLF as part of its making regimen.
Like their color, rosé wines fall in the middle. Classic Provence rosés usually avoid MLF. Darker rosés and rosés finished in oak are much more likely to have partial of full MLF.
Sparkling wine MLF depends on the maker. Krug and Bollinger use full MLF. Louis Roederer often blocks MLF. CristalâLouis Roedererâs prestige pourâexperiences partial MLF.
Malolactic fermentationâtechnically malolactic conversionâis an important winemaking tool. If you have read this far, you have more than dipped your toe into wine wonkiness.
Tasting notes
âą Trefethen Family Vineyards Estate Grown Dry Riesling, Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley 2022: Sleek, crisp, delicate aromatics. $22-28 Link to my review
âą Sealionne Wines Halcyon Chardonnay, Chehalem Mountains AVA, Willamette Valley 2022: Unique flavors through fermentation mix of stainless steel, oak, amphora. $45 Link to my review
âą Three Sticks One Sky Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021: Superb, classic Sonoma pinot from highest vineyard in the AVA. Delicious fruit, depth, length, structure. $85 Link to my review
Last round
Double negatives are a big no-no. Wine time.
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Commercialization defines wine 8-21-2024
Wine is fermented grape juice, an agricultural product like green beans and corn. But that is not how we think about wine. Why?
We think of wine as a consequence of culture rather than agri-culture. Wine is treated like an aesthetic product, similar to the arts, with special terminology, in-depth discussion and analysis, reviews by experts.
But wine also is a commercial product. It has been for thousands of years, and the special dynamics of it being a commercial product shaped wine and how you think about wine. In 2021, the most recent complete statistics, the world made 34 billion bottles of wine with a market value of $53 billion. Wine is a commercial product.
Placeââterroirââis a central belief in wineâs mythos. As far back as ancient Greece, elites believed wines from distant places were special. The simple folk drank locally produced fermented grape juice or beer. The rich and powerful drank wine. Commercial value was enhanced by the wine coming from a distant place.
Gironde Estuary. Photo: Chell Hill
That had a major impact on where âfine wineâ came from. When you mention Bordeaux your first thought is about wine, not about an estuary. But the Gironde estuary is why great wine chateaus are located on Bordeauxâs left and right banks. The sea gave chateaus trade access to England and Northern Europe, where climate prevented wine production. When you canât produce something in your back yard and must have it shipped to you, it takes on special value you are willing to pay for.
All the great wine regions of France, Italy, and Spainâthe worldâs largest wine producersâare located on rivers that facilitate transport and trade. The situation creates a self-reinforcing loop. The chateaus of Bordeaux make money exporting a luxury product, then use the generated wealth to improve their product and reinforce the sophisticated image of their product and create more demand for it.
Terroir is a real thing, but it is the product of winemakers using profits to experiment and learn about what works best on their piece of land. Commercial trade is the reason wineries were located where they are. Knowledge paid for by profits from commercial trade is the reason those places became the best places to make wine.
I believe wine can be a mystical artistic expression of soaring human endeavors and the good graces of God and nature. But we got there because someone made fermented grape juice worth buying and someone else was willing to pay for it.
Last round
The pastâhistory. The futureâmystery. Todayâa gift. That is why we call it the present. Wine time.
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Did the extinction of dinosaurs play a part in the creation of wine? While it may sound far-fetched, according to an article in the prestigious, peer-reviewed scientific journal Nature Plants, there is scientific evidence to support the theory.
Researchers discovered fossil grape seeds in South America dating back 60 million years. Fossil grape seed evidence in India dates back 66 million years. The dinosaur extinction occurred 66 million years ago. Coincidence? Science indicates no.
The extinction marks the end of the Cretaceous Period. Approximately 75 percent of all plant and animal species were lost, including all non-avian dinosaurs. That transformed the entire world. With large animals not around to eat or knock down trees, forests reset themselves, becoming much more dense and layered. Trees grew taller, and there were many more of them.
Grape vines are tree climbers. Trees are their natural habitat. As trees grew up, grape vines were right there with them, climbing toward sunlight. Vineyard structures are simulated trees. The increase in birds and mammals also helped. Grape globes are designed to be eaten. Grape seeds are designed to survive digestion, then spread by animals that eat them.
Soft, grape globes, of course, did not fossilize. Seeds did. Although grape seeds are tiny, scientists identified particular shapes and other morphological features. CT scans identified internal structures that confirmed the grape seed identity.
While grape vines existed before the great extinction, the extinction created vast new, favorable conditions and ecological niches. The extinction did not cause the appearance of grape vines, it did favor their spread and diversification, as it did for all flowering plants.
The next time you sip wine or munch on a raisin or a table grape, pause to thank the asteroid that slammed into Earth 66 million years ago. That event may have killed dinosaurs, but it helped give us grape vines. And wine.
Tasting notes
⹠FIOL Prosecco Rosé Millesimato 2021: Fresh, fruity, elegant, fun. Blend of 85% glera and 15% pinot noir. Ideal for a Sunday brunch. $18 Link to my review
âą Baron Philippe de Rothschild Mouton Cadet Blanc X Nathan 2023: Low acidityâfor a sauv blancâallows tasty fruit to shine. People not into sauv blanc will enjoy this effort. $16-19 Link to my review
âą Etude Pinot Gris, Grace Benoist Ranch Vineyard, Carneros 2022: Bright, fresh, easy drinker; delivers depth, aromatic intensity. $23-28 Link to my review
âą Rodney Strong Vineyards Russian River Valley Reserve Chardonnay 2021: Rich, premium pour. Skillfully touches all the bases of the oak and malo Russian River style; avoids cartoony excess. $46-50 Link to my review
Last round
Drinking wine usually is not the answer, but it does help you forget the question.
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August. For many, triple digit degree days. Time to beat the heat with chilled rosé.
Except, what exactly is rosé? Surprisingly, in the often rigid, rule-ridden world of wine, there is no consensus definition of what is a rosé.
Are not wines divided into red, white, rosĂ©, and amber/orange? It might be nice, but they are not. Turns out, only white wine has a strict definition. At an event in London, renowned rosĂ© specialist and Master of Wine Elizabeth Gabay stated: âI think we should get rid of the terms red, white, rosĂ© and orange wine, because the gradations are not really there.â
When asked if the International Organization of Vine and Wine (OIV) should come up with hard and fast definitions, she replied: âAbsolutely not. I love the blurry line.â
Samantha
There is a generally accepted, but rough, division. White wines are fermented with no or only briefest contact with grape skins. Juice is separated from grape skins before fermentation begins.
OIV also has a definition for white grapes when fermentation occurs during prolonged contact with skins, pulp, seeds, and stems. This is âamberâ or âorangeâ wine, a reference to the wineâs color. There is some term turmoil about âorangeâ because the wine is not quite orange and it is not made with oranges, but there is agreement that so-named wines are made with a defined method.
When it comes to red wine and rosĂ©, however, the OIV does not have a precise definition. The organization does provide methods for assessing wine colors using spectrophotometry. The OIV states it âhas a general definition for wine, but no specific definition for wine colours, which can be described according to the grape varieties and production methods, or by colour determination via analytical methods.â
Specifically on rosĂ© wines, the OIV comments: âFor what concerns rosĂ© wine, the main problem is a lack of a clear definition and therefore for many counties this category is included in red wine.â
While the definition may not be precise, there is no question rosé is on the rise. Globally, white wine represents half of all wine produced. Red wine represents 42% and rosé 8%. But, in 2021 (last year for complete numbers), red wine production decreased 25% from its peak in 2004, white wine increased 13% from its low in 2002, and rosé increased 25% from its low in 2001.
RosĂ©âyou know it when you see it.
Last round
Why do scuba divers fall backwards off of the boat? Because if they fell forward, theyâd still be in the boat. Wine time.
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Tasting science used to be so simple. Alas, no more.
Back in 1901, a German scientist opined various taste receptors were orderly segregated on your tongue in specific places. Sweet on your tip, salty on the sides, sour behind them, bitter in the back. Nice, neat, wrong.
Modern scienceâthe flawed German study is from 1901âconfirms the perception of taste is remarkably complex and not limited to your tongue. Judging flavors is deeply integrated into what is good for you to eat and what is not, so it should be no surprise that hundreds of thousands of years of tasting experience created a complex and extremely sophisticated human palate. If it had not, you and I would not be around to read about this.
Yes, it does start with the tongue. Sensors alert the brain when they encounter nutrients or toxins. Pleasure or poison is the first threshold. Horrible, you instinctively spit it out. But your response does not stop after that initial pass-fail taste test. When alerted, your gastrointestinal tract, liver, pancreas, fat cells, brain, muscle cells, and lungs also spring into action. Your tongue taste buds alert your body in the same way an airport system responds to an airplane coming in for a landing. Your tongue may be the control tower, but it only sets everything else into motion.
Ivan Pavlov, a Russian physiologist who won a Nobel Prize for his studies on digestion in 1904, showed lumps of meat placed directly into a hole in the dogâs stomach would not be digested unless he dusted the dogâs tongue with some dried meat powder to start things off. Dog food, wine. Who knew they would be connected?
I do not know of scientific studies to back me up, but I assert there is a connection between wineâessentially liquid fruitâand your bodyâs collective response to nourishment. Wine has complemented our food for at least 8,000 years, likely longer. When human beings find something that works, they tend to expand upon it.
Cheers.
Tasting notes
âą Rainstorm Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, Oregon 2022: Bright, fresh with good tartness, citrus. Delightful wine with the tartness and acidity to pair well with lighter fare. $16-18 Link to my review
âą RamĆn Bilbao Verdejo, Rueda 2022: Crisp, fruity, refreshing. Bright, inviting, vibrant pleasure in the mouth. $18-23 Link to my review
âą Becker Vineyards Prairie CuvĂ©e, Texas High Plains 2019: Light, refreshing, full fruity flavor. Classic RhĂŽne blend using Texas-grown grapes by substantial player in stateâs ascendency in the wine world. $25 Link to my review
Last round
Commas are so very important. âYour dinnerâ (no comma) leaves you nourished. âYouâre dinnerâ (comma) leaves you eaten. Wine time.
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Direct-to-consumer (DtC) wine shipping enjoys exponential growth. This is a great and welcome boon to wine makers, especially smaller ones who effectively are ignored by mega wholesalers.
But the trend rattles those same near-monopoly wholesalersâSouthern Glazerâs and Republic National. And they are fighting back by lobbying to restrict DtC in state legislatures and making delivery more complicated.
Fear mongering about DtC leading to minors securing alcohol is a major meme. Claim: when DtC rules are relaxed, there is more underage drinking. They offer no proof of their claim because none exists. In fact, underage drinking is historically down in the past decade.
Common sense and experience tells you teenagers are not going to order wine online to be delivered days later. Why would anyone under 21 go to that trouble when all they need do is raid their parentâs stash, recruit a friend who is over 21 to buy, buy themselves at a compliant store or with a fake ID, or simply steal from the store? That is how it has worked from time out of memory.
That is not to say DtC providers should ignore underage drinking. Many times a week I receive DtC wines from wineries who want me to review their wine. I am in my mid-70s. Delivery people still ask to see an ID the first time they come, and have me sign for the delivery every time. That is reality. Ignore the bogus scare tactics of those who oppose DtC.
The core of the problem is the entrenched hangover from Prohibition: the three-tier system. The system divides the alcohol supply chain into producer, wholesaler, and retailer. The two middle-men, the wholesaler and the retailer, each get their cut of the action and raise the product price.
Smaller wineries are not noticed by the big dog wholesalers and must make do with wine club and on-premise winery sales. That hurts the boutique wineries and deprives you of quality, small production wine experiences. As DtC opportunities increase, it benefits wineries and consumers. It hurts big wholesalers and retailers, and they are using all their lobbying clout to thwart this trend.
You can easily surmise where my sympathies lie.
Tasting notes
⹠Grape Creek Vineyards Cuvée Blanc White Wine, Texas 2022: Excellent mouthfeel and rich, tasty fruit backed by jaunty acidity. Sterling example of why Texas wines must be taken seriously. $24-30 Link to my review
âą Three Sticks One Sky Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021: Delicious fruit, depth, length, structure. $85 Link to my review
Last round
Question: âWhich hand do you use when cutting your steak?â
Answer: âI donât use my hand, I use a knife.â Wine time.
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A miracle is happening right now in vineyards throughout the northern hemisphere.
âVĂ©raisonâ is the French term for the time when a wine vineâs tiny, tight green nubs morph into plump, tasty, colorful globes. Red grapes transition from green to red, purple, blue, or black. White grapes transition from green to translucent yellow, orange, or gold.
Olivier Lemoine
In addition to color changes grapes undergo other vital changes.
âą Grapes soften, become juicier and more pliable.
âą Grapes can double in size as they accumulate sugars and other nutrients.
âą Glucose and fructose levelsâsugarsâincrease, critical to the later production of alcohol.
âą Malic acid decreases, making tartaric acid predominant, critical for flavor balance.
âą Herbaceousâgreenâaromas and taste degrade, replaced by fruity aromas.
âą The concentration and composition of phenolic compounds, especially tannins, change. Riper grapes with well-developed phenolics are smoother, more complex, and have a more pleasant mouthfeel.
âą Vines shift from energy production through photosynthesisâleaf productionâto energy consumption, concentrating energy to make ripe, sweet grapes.
âą VĂ©raison occurs in the northern hemisphere beginning in mid-to-late July, but grape variety, temperature, climate, and region influence the process. It may not begin until mid-August some places.
⹠Véraison may not occur simultaneously in a vineyard or even on a single vine. Vines that undergo véraison more evenly generally produce wines with greater complexity and depth.
âą VĂ©raison means harvest is 45 to 60 days away. Precise timing of the harvest is critical in the production of quality wine. That largely is under the control of humans. VĂ©raison is the magical time that sets up the harvest. That is almost exclusively under the control of God and Mother Nature. The wine you enjoy is the product of this symbiotic relationship.
Tasting notes
âą MGM Mondo del Vino Riva Leone Gavi DOCG 2021: Delicious dry, light wine with admirable crispness and delicious cortese fruit. $15-17 Link to my review
âą Gigondas La Cave Le Dit De Saint Tronquet, CĂŽtes du RhĂŽne Villages Plan de Dieu 2022: Solid GSM from RhĂŽne Villages cooperative in a special placeââGodâs Planâ [Plan de Dieu]. $18 Link to my review
âą Hahn Family Wines Appellation Series Chardonnay, Arroyo Seco 2021: Rich, full, round, clean; impressive example of oaked chardonnay, touches all the delicious, well-made chard bases. $22-25 Link to my review
âą Texas Heritage Vineyard Viognier, Wildseed Farms Vineyard, Texas Hill Country 2022: Deep, delicious, robust, aromatic expression of Texas viognier. $21-28 Link to my review
âą M. Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage Petite Ruche Blanc 2021: Plump pleaser, rich, fruity, medium-plus body marsanne play. $27 Link to my review
Last round
Did you hear about the mathematician who was afraid of negative numbers? He would stop at nothing to avoid them. Wine time.
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As the Nat King Cole song goes, âRoll out those lazy, hazy days of summer.â But instead of soda and pretzels and beer, it is so much nicer to sip well-chilled rosĂ©.
The rosĂ© clichĂ© is that it is only a summertime wine. Not remotely true, but rosĂ© certainly is a lovely libationâboth in taste and colorâas we endure the trials Sol slings at us.
Rosé is light-bodied, fresh and fruity, moderate alcohol. Those are all good things for a scorching day thirst quencher. Rosé also pairs well with the lighter food we eat in summer.
RosĂ©s come in many colors. Some sippers immediately think of the very pale rosĂ©s from CĂŽtes de Provence, but color is an indication of style, not quality. RosĂ©s from the Tavel region of the Rhone Valley or the Cerasuolo dâAbruzzo region of Italy are dark rosĂ©s and excellent rosĂ©s.
There are four techniques used to make rosé:
⹠Direct pressing involves pressing red grapes immediately after harvest allowing minimal skin contact and occurs before fermentation begins. This produces the palest pink wine. Pale rosés usually deliver flavors of strawberries, raspberries, watermelon, cantaloupe. Pale Provence rosés are made using this technique.
âą SaignĂ©e (French for âbleedingâ) involves allowing a portion of red wine to âbleedâ off early in fermentation. This produces wines darker than direct press. SaignĂ©e tends to promote raspberry and blackberry flavors and aromas. SaignĂ©e rosĂ© wines also can be more tannic and suitable for aging.
âą Maceration involves leaving the juice in contact with the skins for an extended period. The longer the maceration, the darker the color. When the desired color is achieved, the mustâthe mix of juice, skins, stems, and seedsâis pressed and fermentation begins. This is another popular method in Provence and is used to make their most serious rosĂ©s.
⹠A final method, particularly used in Champagne to produce rosé sparkling wine, involves blending a small amount of red wine into white wine. Champagne makers focus on a consistent product year upon year. Blending allows for the most control of the product.
Tasting notes
⹠Ultimate Provence UP CÎtes de Provence Rosé 2022: Tangy edge plays well with juicy red fruits. Richer, more body than the diaphanous efforts of some Provence purveyors. $20-23 Link to my review
⹠William Chris Vineyards La Pradera Rosé, Texas High Plains 2022: Tasty red fruit with an emphasis on mourvÚdre in this vintage. $24 Link to my review
⹠Wedding Oak Winery Sweetheart Rosé, Texas 2021: Delight, delicious fruit. Elegant, substantial. Complexity from a well-coordinated mélange of Texas red grapes. $29 Link to my review
Last round
Hyphenated and non-hyphenated. Ah, the ironies of the English language. Wine time.
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