Afleveringen
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In this exciting collaboration episode of Silhouettes, we're stepping into the immersive world of Fashion City: How Jewish Londoners Shaped Global Style, the captivating new exhibition at the Museum of London Docklands. This episode will offer you, my listeners, a unique glimpse into this remarkable celebration of the Jewish Londoners who played a pivotal role in building London's reputation as a fashion capital.
From Dot Cotton's iconic coat to a Mr. Fish smoking dress, this exhibition illuminates the significant contributions of Jewish designers to London's fashion narrative. Join us as we uncover the tales of these visionary creators, who not only influenced London's fashion landscape, but left an indelible mark on the global stage.
We're joined by Bethan Bide, a design historian at the University of Leeds, and the academic advisor to "Fashion City," and Lucie Whitmore, fashion historian and curator of “Fashion City”. Not only will Lucie and Bethan share their insights behind the curation of "Fashion City," exploring how they navigated the intersections of culture, creativity, and identity, shedding light on their research processes, as well as how they decided to showcase these narratives through the pieces selected for display, they will also guide us through the exhibition, leading you from the doors of a traditional tailor's workshop in the East End to the glittering ambiance of a Carnaby Street boutique amidst the heart of a cultural revolution.
"Fashion City: How Jewish Londoners Shaped Global Style" has been extended for visitors until July 7th, 2024, offering an extended opportunity to immerse yourself in this captivating journey through fashion history.
About Museum of London Docklands
The Museum of London Docklands is located at West India Quay in east London. Opened in 2003, it occupies one of the few remaining original grade one listed warehouses, built in 1802 to store produce from the West Indies.
A shared place in the heart of the East End, where stories cross and collide, it confidently shows how international trade, migration, enslavement and the river Thames were integral to shaping London and the world we live in today.
The museum is open 7 days a week, from 10am-5pm and is FREE to all. You can explore the Museum of London with collections online - home to 90,000 objects with more being added regularly.
Praise for “Fashion City”:
"Brilliant!" - Patrick Grant
"It's the best fashion exhibition I've seen in years" - Alexandra Shulman (Mail on Sunday)
"A thorough and nuanced depiction of the makers of London fashion" - Evening Standard
"Immersive and brilliantly assembled at every turn" -Apollo Magazine
"Expertly crafted" - Glass Magazine
"A must-see for anyone interested in either fashion history or London history" - Amber Butchart
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In this episode of Silhouettes, I am joined by Elisabeth Gernerd, 18th century dress historian and author of The Modern Venus: Dress, underwear, and accessories in the late 18th century.
This episode continues our Valentines special season all about the history of undergarments, lingerie and underwear.
‘The Modern Venus’ highlights the significance of this element of a woman’s wardrobe in the 1770s and 1780s, detailing how undergarments played their part in transforming fashionable dress at a time when clothes were expanding to both new heights and new volumes, exploring the socio-political power underwear held.
Listen now to find out how, through the use of a range of contemporary sources, ‘The Modern Venus’ unpacks the importance underwear has had as an overlooked garment, defining not just a woman’s silhouette, but it’s social and cultural influence.
‘The Modern Venus’ can be bought from Bloomsbury publishing at the Bloomsbury visual arts imprint here.
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Zijn er afleveringen die ontbreken?
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Disclaimer: This episode focuses on naughtier topics like sex, sexuality, and perceptions towards the female body! ❤️
When used to colour women's lingerie, red's poignant symbolism engages with societal perceptions of feminine sexuality and empowerment, and on this weeks episode I celebrating am Valentine’s Day and talking with fashion historian Summer Anne Lee all about the symbolism, fashionability and societal meaning of red lingerie and underwear in history, focusing on her work for the Underpinnings museum digital exhibition ‘A History of Red Lingerie’ ❤️💋
Incendiary: A History of Red Lingerie tells this story through thirty objects, dating from circa the 1860s to 2017’ So listen now to find out more about just what it means, and what exactly you’re communicating, when wearing wear red underneath your clothes.
‘During some parts of the nineteenth century, fashionable shades of red in women's dress included scarlet, crimson, cardinal, garnet, ruby, poppy, and even a "dull deep hue" called "antique red" (Harper's Bazaar, 1868). Yet opinions of brightly-coloured undergarments were vexed, variously considered abhorrent and improper, or stylish and inflammatory. New associations were formed by the middle of the twentieth century. Lingerie was marketed to women in countless shades of red, including flame, bright rose, spice, cherry, firecracker, and siren. These were considered fun and bold hues to enliven one's wardrobe and were often combined with black for a "dramatic look" (Women's Wear Daily, 1952). Since the sexual liberation movement of the 1960s, red lingerie has developed more romantic and seductive associations, gaining a reputation for being "sexy," "red-hot," "smoldering," and "incendiary."
Listen now to find out more! ❣️
Visit the exhibition: www.underpinningsmuseum.com
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Personal styling has a rather unique and often complicated history, spanning all the way from the French Revolution to the Advent of the AI assisted styling that we see emerging today.
In this episode, written in collaboration with Sydney Yeager of dressedcodes, we learn just how influential stylists have been in the annals of fashion history, how they have come to define fashion concepts such as ‘dressing for success’ & ‘you are what you wear’ and how they changed the landscape when it came to curating and defining personal style across the world.
This episode of our short history series is in collaboration with Sydney Yeager of dressedcodes
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Mirror, mirror, on the wall... On this episode of Silhouettes, we reflect on the fascinating and often fragile history of mirrors. Starting with polished glass, to scientific developments in treated glass, mirrors hold up a reflection to our societies; dictating when, why and how vanity, self-styling and personal care have become important throughout time. Examples include use in Greek mythology, their importance in Roman culture, cultural impact across high society and the important role of empowerment mirrors played during the slave trade.
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In this episode I am joined by prominent historian Elizabeth L. Block to discuss all things 19th century fashion!
Her book, Dressing Up chronicles how wealthy American women-as consumers and as influencers-helped shape French couture of the late nineteenth and examines the couturiers' influential clientele--wealthy American women who bolstered the French fashion industry with a steady stream of orders from the United States.
Countering the usual narrative of the designer as solo creative genius, Block tell us just how these women-as high-volume customers and as pre-Internet influencers-were active participants in the era's transnational fashion system. Block describes the arrival of nouveau riche Americans on the French fashion scene, joining European royalty, French socialites, and famous actresses on the client rosters of the best fashion houses-Charles Frederick Worth, Doucet, and Felix, among others.
Block reveals the power of American women in French couture.
Listen now to find out just influential late 19th century France was to American fashion, and how The Gilded Age on HBO has interpreted this in their new hit show.
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In this Halloween special episode, I’m joined by Katie Godman, author of Gothic Fashion: The History to talk all about her wonderfully Gothic book, as we trace Gothic fashion history from barbarians to haute couture and delve into the long, fascinating and sometimes unexpected evolution of all things Gothic.
We discuss just how Gothic fashion has evolved from its ancient roots to the Victorian Gothic, all the way to the Goth subculture movements of more recent history.
Katie’s book Gothic Fashion: A History is published by Unicorn Publishing and available to buy through their website. Katie can also be found on Instagram from @kittiecostume as well as via Blandford Fashion Museum socials.
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The imagery of a wicked witch is one we all know well: flowing black robes, pointed black hat, pointed boots and a wooden broom- but have you ever wondered why these specific accessories have become synonymous with the image of a witch?
In this episode I will delve into how, why and when this distinctive attire evolved, tracing the ancient origins of witchcraft to depictions of the green faced wicked witch of the west. Join me on a spooky, magical journey as we learn about the intricate, fascinating and multifaceted history of witchcraft around the world, witchy dress history, and how the iconic imagery of the witch came to be.
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From Buffy, to Bram Stroker, to Twilight - Vampires have had a fascinating journey in the public eye. In this episode of Silhouettes, we discuss the iconic vampire image that has inspired Halloween costumes across the globe, tracing the routes of the vampire's origins, to Dracula and his famous incarnations in cinema, from Universal Studios and Hammer Horror, and vampiric influence on Goth culture the world over. Happy Spooky Season!
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In today’s episode of Silhouettes I’m chatting with Isabella Rosner, host of the Sew What? Podcast, curator of the Royal School of Needlework and research consultant for Whitney Antiques. She also runs the Instagram page Historic Embroidery, and is a wealth of knowledge on everything to do with historic embroidery and needlework; from the 16th century onward. On this episode we discuss how studying historic embroidery can teach us about lives of teenage girls, the transition of girlhood, how we can trace what was important to people and their lives through fashion and how needle work as a practice has weaved its way through peoples lives in one way or another throughout history.
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Fashion History is often overlooked for it's importance in conversations about the past, but in this episode of Silhouettes we take the podcast on the road for the first time and look behind the curtain of one of the UK's only standalone Fashion Museums; Blandford Fashion Museum.
I was lucky enough to be invited out to the South-Coast of the UK to Blandford explore everything the museum has to offer with their wonderful body of staff and volunteers. In this episode I speak with Operations Manager Katie Godman about the history of the collection and it's origins, Funding Manager Kathrine about the importance of her role, you'll join me as we take an audio tour of the museum's exhibitions, through all the rich, wonderful historical fashions on show - from Regency bonnets to 1950s cocktail dresses - as well as the spaces you've always wanted to visit... behind the locked doors, secret rooms and attic archives!
More information on how to support Blandford Fashion Museum as well as a myriad of information on talks, lectures and the events they offer, can be found on their website: blandfordfashionmuseum.co.uk
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History is not short on women who've been robbed of their reputations, be that in their lifetimes or the years that followed, and in this episode I'm joined by Grace of the Wicked Women Podcast to discuss exactly that. We delve into the fashion of some of history's most notorious women and how they weaponized the clothes they wore to either dismantle or enforce the reputations society had given them.
Thanks to Grace for joining me on this episode. Listen to the first part of our conversation via Wicked Women HERE
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Hello, and welcome back to Silhouettes ✨
The knights in shining armour are some of the most iconic images when it comes to general knowledge, and depictions, of the medieval times. From Lancelot to Galahad, Knights feature in endless epic tales and legends, and it is undoubtably their armour that has allowed them to stand out from their medieval peers- but what did a knight in shining armour ACTUALLY wear, and were they as chivalrous, and as decorated, as media and legend has had us believe? ⚔️
Listen now to find out how long it took for a knight to be dressed, how their armour was designed, formed and smithed, and how heavy a suit of armour ACTUALLY was…🗡️
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From hennins to accessorised weapons, in this third installment of our Medieval Fashion series, I delve into the the royal, and upper class, fashion of late medieval Europe. From Queens and Kings, to fascinating women of the religious orders like Christine de Pizan, listen now to find out what power dressing looked like throughout Europe from the 12th to the 14th centuries ✨
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She’s been a teacher, an astronaut, the Prom Queen, a Cali Girl, a Gogo Dancer, and now the star of the latest Hollywood Blockbuster (!), but what makes Barbie the icon that she is, and how valuable is she as a figure in Fashion History?
Today on Silhouettes we discuss some of Barbie's most iconic fashions throughout the last 60 years - as well as some of her faux pas, her varying public perception throughout the eras, and her unforgettable hot-pink space suit...
This episode is a re-upload, originally posted August 31st 2020.
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From weaving with gold thread to telling stories through fashion, the world of medieval embroidery is a wonderful one, and in this episode, I take you through the fascinating world of medieval mythology; mermaids to lionesses to griffins to... seamonks..? and how we can trace these histories, weird and wonderful, through fashion 🧜♀️🦁
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The history of the early Middle Ages is long and complicated and spans Europe, England, Ireland, and Scotland, from Constantinople to Viking territory, with a great deal of cultural, artistic and scientific innovation defining these periods, and of course, the fashion the these earlier time periods was no stranger to these changes. This episode also discusses the controversy surrounding the term ‘The Dark Ages’ and how it has come to define our opinions towards the fashion and culture of these earlier centuries.
This is a detailed, long and information heavy episode- so grab a cup of tea, get comfortable and travel back in time with me to the early Middle Ages: from the year 400 to 1066 for a true deep-dive into the fascinating, fashionable history of the early Middle Ages 📚
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From tunics to steeple caps, this episode is the first in the start of a new series all about Medieval Fashion, as requested by you! I focus on the story of the “dark ages”, the Middle Ages, ending with the the Italian renaissance, travelling throughout Europe and the UK to delve into the diverse, fascinating and detailed fashion of the medieval times, from the 5th century all the way to the 15th.
This episode is just a short introduction to the fashion, politics, and the complicated religious and social history of what is now known as the Medieval Times, to give you the ‘how, what and why’ of the history of fashion throughout Europe, from the Norman's to the Anglo Saxons, explaining the political backdrop of fashion changes, the social expectations on all classes throughout the centuries, and most importantly, I explain why it is virtually impossible to do a detailed episode of medieval, history, all hundreds of years of it, in one short episode ✨
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This week I am joined by guest, Sarah Somerville, Visitor Services Officer at at the historic Shaw House in West Berkshire, England, to delve deep into the how, what, why and who of the fashion-focused exhibition ‘Dressed for Shaw’ currently held at Shaw House.
Dressed for Shaw, an exhibition exploring the key moments in Shaw House's history through clothes, delves into the more personal stories and secrets of those who energized the House over the last 400 years. Through period dress, from the Farthingale's of the 1580's, to the breeches of the 1640's, frills of the 1730's, and the weathered wool of the 19th century - this exhibition works to better understand how these items shaped the history of Shaw House.
Shaw House is one of the best-preserved Elizabethan mansions in England, and over the centuries has welcomed royalty, seen action during the Civil War, housed soldiers during World War Il and schooled generations of local children and has a rich and fascinating history: and it’s fashions are no stranger.
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Shaw House is free to visit on weekends and during school holidays. More information on the house and this wonderful exhibition, can be found here: https://www.westberkshireheritage.org/shaw-house
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Fiction can be a historian's greatest source of contemporary information if used correctly, and the study of fashion history is no different... Bridal fashion in particular! In this episode of Silhouettes I explore:
How and why we can use fiction, books, short stories, poems and more to get first-hand accounts of what people were wearing in history. The ways we can use these same skills to explore the wedding fashion of eras from the 18th century all the way to the mid century, from fictional weddings to fictional brides. The wedding fashion some of fictions most iconic brides; from Miss Havisham to the Bride of Frankenstien, in both their true novelized icarnrtions to their modern media re-imaginings.“Our mad dream is only half realized. Alone, you have created the man. Now, together, we will create his mate.” Bride of Frankenstien, 1935
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