Afleveringen
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Short climbers are good at getting scrunchy, and tall climbers are good at climbing extended, right?
Ummm, no. Not always.Actually, not even most of the time.
Believing that, particularly if youâre one of those short or tall climbers, is a trap. Iâm going to tell you why, and Iâm going to tell you exactly how to make sure you donât fall into this trap. Or if youâre in it already, how to get out, so that we can all extend our useful range...
Read the rest on the blog!
Watch the video on YouTube!
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You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
Taped Tips | The Secret to Hard Moves that Most Climbers Are Missing
Taped Tips | The Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves
Our Movement Practice Resource Page
Marina Inoue | Does Size Matter?
Applied Body Tension Ebook
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Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
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The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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Today we rewind to an episode of Breaking Beta where Kris and Paul dig into a paper that presents and then tests a method for measuring movement skills in climbing:
Climbing performance analysis: A novel tool for the assessment of rock climber's movement performanceAuthored by Nicola Taylor, Dave Giles, Michaela PanĂĄÄkovĂĄ, James Mitchell, Joel B. Chidley, and Nick Draper; published in the International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance in January, 2020.
Theyâll attempt to determine whether or not movement skills in climbing can even be measured reliably, and if the proposed system translates to anything useful for everyday climbers and coaches trying to assess movement.
This episode originally aired on July 27, 2022.
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You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
Our Movement Practice Resource Page
More Episodes of Breaking Beta: The Science of Climbing Podcast
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Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
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The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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đCHAPTERS
(00:00) Notes From Kris
(3:11) Introduction
(6:48) Methods
(15:37) Results and Our Thoughts
(27:37) What Should Come Next?
(34:34) Wrap Up
(39:28) Credits and Theme
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Zijn er afleveringen die ontbreken?
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Ben Mayforth is a decorated climber well known for dialing in his training regimen. He's a Paraclimbing World Cup multi-medalist. Since 2019, he hasn't missed a silver medal at the Paraclimbing World Championships. Ben has a reputation of being extremely disciplined, but heâs recently loosened some of his self-imposed rules, and we discuss the impacts from that âletting goâ in this episode.
Every Body Climbs (EBC) is a collaborative podcast, presented across Plug Tone Audio platforms, bringing you interviews with para and adaptive climbers. These profiles can be heard on The Power Company Podcast and Sends and Suffers. Content about festivals, engagement projects and other modes of community building air on Sends and Suffers, while training and nutrition focused interviews can be heard on The Power Company Podcast. Host, Emily Chen-Newton is a freelance adaptive sports reporter working in both print and broadcast. Living with a chronic medical condition herself, her journalism centers athletes, not their disabilities. When sheâs not reporting, sheâs rock climbing with her husband and their two cats.
Follow Emily and EBC on:
Instagram
SoundCloud
Theme music sample attribution: Creeper_Ciller78
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You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
More episodes of Every Body Climbs
More episodes of Sends and Suffers
Maureen Beck | Adapting
Justin Salas | Nonsighting
REWIND | Craig DeMartino on Making Hard Decisions and Using Limitations
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Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
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The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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Today's episode comes from The Struggle Climbing Show and features our very own coach Nate Drolet in consultation with the show's host Ryan Devlin, who has been working hard towards a goal to climb 13a. They'll talk movement analysis, technique improvement, and more. This is the first of two episodes with Nate on the topic, so be sure to head over to The Struggle to hear the second part!
Check out more episodes of The Struggle Climbing Show.
Follow The Struggle Climbing Show on Instagram.
Get more content on The Struggle's Patreon.
_________________________
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You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
Our Movement Practice Resource Page
Book a Remote Consultation with Nate
_________________________
đ SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube.
Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
_________________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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Udo Neumann is a climber, performance coach, and motor-learning explorer. Heâs the author of several books, including the cult classic Performance Rock Climbing. He was the German National Team coach from 2009 to 2017, working with several European and World Champion athletes during that time, including Jan Hojer and Jule Wurm. Today he advises federations and works with athletes and coaches all over the world.
In this episode, we discuss his ideas around motor learning and coaching movement, whether a coach needs to be as good as the athlete, how he assesses climbers, what makes Janja Garnbret and Tomoa Narasaki special, and what makes the Japanese team so good.
Find Udo online at udini.com and on YouTube.
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đ EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
Performance Rock Climbing by Udo Neumann and Dale Goddard
Episode 482: The Coaching Eye - How Reliably Can Expert Coaches Observe Movement? | The Perception & Action Podcast
Cognitive Bias Codex Infographic from Visual Capitalist
Coaching for Mastery Course
_________________________
đ SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
_________________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
_________________________
đ CHAPTERS
(0:00) Intro and Guest Introduction
(3:09) Have We Overemphasized the Physical?
(7:26) Udoâs Transition to the Ecological Approach to Coaching
(8:42) ANNOTATION: Bernstein, Degrees of Freedom, Repetition Without Repetition
(14:54) Deliberate Play
(29:32) The Athlete Doesnât Need All of the Information
(32:33) Does a Coach Need to Be Better Than the Climber?
(34:57) Technique vs. Skill
(40:02) Open and Closed Skills
(40:52) ANNOTATION: Open and Closed Skill Continuums
(45:51) Adaptability and Biases in Climbing
(51:07) ANNOTATION: Marshmallow Test and Delayed Gratification
(56:40) What Makes Janja Garnbret So Good?
(59:20) Rhythm and Patience
(1:02:01) How Does Udo Assess Movement Skills?
(1:09:09) How Often Should We Give Explicit Instruction?
(1:16:29) Using Video in Coaching
(1:28:34) Are Comp Boulders Useful for Outdoor Climbers?
(1:32:40) Whatâs the Secret of the Japanese Team and Tomoa Narasaki?
(1:42:07) Wrap Up
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Where's the first place your mind goes when you donât stick a move?
If youâre like most climbers, itâs probably your finger strength, or tension, or even your effort, and youâre already considering what hangboard protocol to use or some front lever workout.
But itâs possible youâre looking in the wrong direction entirely...
Read the rest on the blog!
Watch the video on YouTube!
_________________________
đ EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
Taped Tips | The Secret to Hard Moves that Most Climbers Are Missing
Our Movement Practice Resource Page
Coaching for Mastery Course
_________________________
đ SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
_________________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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Will Anglin is one of the founders of Tension Climbing, a company that not only makes training tools, but also is committed to innovation in a way that leads climbers toward mastery over success. In this episode we discuss movement skills, some ways climbers are going wrong in their pursuit and how they can continue improving, and the tools that might get them there.
Check out Tension Climbing and use code STONE at checkout for 10% off of select training tools!
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You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
If youâre a coach or a climber who wants to learn how to give better feedback, check out our Coaching for Mastery course, part of the Power Company Climbing Academy.
Go down the rabbit hole on our Movement Practice Resource Page.
Are Your Skills Current? Also available on Spotify or Apple
Grades Arenât the Only Way to Measure Progress Also available on Spotify or Apple
More from Will and our friends at Tension:
Kerry Scott | Ambition, Confidence, and Climbing All the Things
Will Anglin and Rowland Chen | P.O.E.
Will Anglin and Rowland Chen | P.O.E. 2
Will Anglin and Michael Rosato | Boards vs. Spray Walls
Roy Quanstrom | Translating Movement
_________________________
đ SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
_________________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
_________________________
đ CHAPTERS
(0:00) Intro and Topic Description
(2:48) Climb All The Things
(6:23) Figuring Out How to Change Me
(8:06) Boards Make It Easier to Skip the Discomfort
(9:12) ANNOTATION: Constraints, Compensation, and Choices
(12:16) Climbing as Training
(13:16) Climb What?
(14:00) Not Stealing the Struggle
(15:45) Unlearning Skills
(16:50) ANNOTATION: Coach Over-Instruction and Skills Currency
(18:19) Improvement Is Hard to Measure
(22:50) Grades Only Say What Weâve Climbed, Not How Good We Are
(23:30) Willâs 3 Grade System
(24:05) ANNOTATION: Vegetable Climbs List and Diamond vs. Pyramid
(26:10) Skills Arenât Separate from Strength and Power
(27:33) Skill Is the Intersection of What, How, and Doing
(28:11) How the Tension Board 1 Is a Movement and Strength Tool
(30:44) Just Climb, But With Intention
(31:33) ANNOTATION: Where Strength and Movement Overlap and the Ultimate Learning Tool
(34:31) Wrap Up
(35:35) Credits and Outro
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Lauren Abernathy works hard to be a better climber. In fact, itâs part of her job as owner of Good Spray Climbing to help other people become better climbers, and she walks the walk. For several years sheâs worked with our coach Blake Cash, and has recently been supplementing that with private movement sessions with Nate Drolet.
In this episode, we discuss why she chose to also do in-person sessions alongside her remote coaching with Blake, whatâs going well, how she fits the training and sessions into her busy life, and how the movement skills are showing up in her climbing.
Find Lauren online at Good Spray Climbing and on Instagram
Check out her Fast Track climbing movement course
Listen to The Average Climber Podcast
Book a remote consultation with Nate Drolet.
Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube.
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đ EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
EXPERT | Taylor Reed on Climbing Research and Evidence-Informed Movement Coaching
EXPERT | Rob Gray | How We Learn to Move and Skill Acquisition for Climbers (Part 2)
Lauren Abernathy | From Weekend Warrior to Full-Time Coach
BOARD MEETINGS | Top Ways Climbers are Holding Themselves Back with The Average Climber Podcast
Coaching for Mastery Course
_________________________
đ SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
_________________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
_________________________
đ CHAPTERS
(0:00) Intro and BUILDER Description
(0:36) Guest Introduction and Details
(2:45) Why Lauren Added In-Person Sessions
(8:17) Was There a Specific Goal?
(9:39) An Example of What Nate Noticed In Laurenâs Movement
(18:43) Lauren Rants About Muggle Gyms
(25:58) Fitting Sessions and Training Into Work and Life
(33:09) Adjusting Skill Session Intensity to Fit Life Stressors
(38:34) Kris Explains His Own Recent Skill Wins
(41:39) How Laurenâs Skill Practice Is Showing Up In Her Climbing
(50:14) The Complexities of Tension
(1:00:19) Nateâs Monologues
(1:01:43) Wrap Up
(1:04:00) Theme
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For most of us, climbing looks like this:
Pull on, try the move, fall off. Stare at your hands and try to understand why you fell. Pull on, try the move, fall off. Stare at your hands and come up with a new reason why you fell. Pull on again, try the move again, fall off. Again
You get it. You've been there. But thereâs a better way.
In this episode, weâre going to talk about the obvious thing that most climbers are missing when it comes to difficult moves and learn several strategies that will help you do those harder moves, harder boulders, and harder routes faster.
Read the rest on the blog!
Watch the video on YouTube!
_________________________
đ EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
Our Movement Practice Resource Page
Coaching for Mastery Course
_________________________
đ SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
_________________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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Taylor Reed is a climber and coach who has worked with high-level athletes â both competitive and outdoor climbers â for many years. Heâs the vice president of the International Rock Climbing Research Association and also runs The Beta Angel Project, which takes climbing-specific research and synthesizes it with ideas and experience in order to find evidence-informed methods that can help us all become better coaches and climbers.
In this episode, we discuss how Taylor assesses movement, how he teaches it, and what role research plays in his overall coaching.
Find Taylor online at:
The Beta Angel Project
International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA)
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đ EXPLORE FURTHER
Research mentioned in the episode:
Austrian Research Paper and Write Up
Co-Contraction Paper and Write Up
Multi-Edge Decision-Making / Behavioral Change Paper
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
Why âTechniqueâ May Not Be The Answer to Better Climbing
EXPERT | Rob Gray | The Gap Between Researchers and Coaches (Part 1)
EXPERT | Rob Gray | How We Learn to Move and Skill Acquisition for Climbers (Part 2)
BOARD MEETINGS | The Art of Learning Climbing
BREAKING BETA | Better Call Paul | How Should Climbing Research Be Standardized?
BREAKING BETA | Better Call Paul | IRCRA Test Battery
Taylor Reed and Bella Jariel | The Coach/Climber Dynamic
_________________________
đSUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
_________________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
_________________________
đCHAPTERS
(0:00) Intro
(2:40) How Much Does Research Inform Taylorâs Coaching?
(3:48) ANNOTATION: Evidence-Based vs. Evidence-Informed
(10:15) What Aspects of Research Are Most Applicable?
(12:53) Looking Outside of Climbing Research
(13:50) ANNOTATION: Reinvestment Theory
(15:37) Speed Climbing
(19:53) Information Processing vs. Ecological Dynamics for Climbing
(30:32) Thematic Movement Learning
(47:40) Movement Assessment
(1:02:48) Teaching Movement
(1:05:22) ANNOTATION: Differential Learning
(1:08:19) ANNOTATION: Attractor Valleys
(1:16:03) How Much Does the Athlete Need to Know?
(1:20:58) ANNOTATION: Leading By Example
(1:22:48) Do Comp Style Climbs Translate to Outdoors?
(1:27:38) What Is Still Missing From the Research?
(1:32:55) Wrap Up
(1:35:06) Theme
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A common refrain in climbing is that the more you climb, the better you get. But all of us know some old crusty who has been climbing for 45 years and is stuck at mid 5.10. And they have all of the excuses as to why. But theyâre wrong.
In this episode, Kris and Nate explore why we believe weâll just get better if we keep at it, as well as offer strategies to continue improving no matter how long (or short) youâve been at it.
_________________________
đ EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
Our Movement Practice Resource Page
Board Meetings | The Art of Learning Climbing
Board Meetings | Quality vs. Quantity
Board Meetings | Worst Advice We Got As Beginners
_________________________
đ SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube.
Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
_________________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
_________________________
đ CHAPTERS
(0:00) Theme
(0:37) Intro and Topic Description
(3:13) Examples of Experience that Doesnât Guarantee Skill
(6:53) Why Most of Us Believe Experience Equals Skill
(10:55) What are the Pros Doing?
(16:20) It Isnât All About Grades
(18:20) Undervaluing Other Styles and Angles
(19:43) We Donât Want to Spend the Time
(21:20) We Go Into Autopilot
(23:23) How Can We Keep Improving Skills?
(24:17) Search for Novelty or Change Environments
(28:30) Approach Improvement from All Angles
(31:06) Recognize Discomfort and Lean In, Even Off the Wall
(35:08) The Zone (Not Grades) Where We Develop Skills
(37:16) Why We Suggest Drills
(38:15) Autopilot Mistakes
(42:40) How New Skills Open Opportunities on Hard Projects
(44:10) Examples of Pros Spending Time Below Their Limits
(49:20) Why Consistency Is NOT King
(53:28) Bringing Intention to Skill Drills
(55:47) Tried and True or Just Tradition?
(01:01:01) So Is Skill Guaranteed With Experience?
(01:03:45) How to Go Deeper Into Movement
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Go ahead, grab that foothold. I mean, itâs only a foothold until someone uses it as a handhold. Then itâs just a hold. So use it.
And if you donât want to because youâd rather challenge yourself to do it without using that really obvious hold right there, thatâs fine, too. Thereâs no heroism in skipping an obvious hold. Thereâs no shame in using a hold other people arenât. Whatâs possible, though, is that if you always choose one way or the other, then youâve painted yourself into a corner. A corner that just doesnât offer as many opportunities to learn.
So thereâs a question that both of you should be asking yourselves. And that question is:
Can I do it both ways?Can I become more adaptable?Thatâs two questions, but you know what I mean...
Read the rest at the blog!
_________________________
đ EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
Our Movement Practice Resource Page
_________________________
đ SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
_________________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
-
Today we REWIND back to one of our favorite Board Meetings of all time. We chose this episode because we are spending the next couple months digging deep into movement and learning, and exploring if there might be a better way to consider movement than the technique-based way weâve always done it. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss ideas presented by author Josh Waitzkin about our mental models for learning, specifically after hearing him as a guest on Tim Ferriss's podcast, and how we might apply these ideas to climbing.
This episode originally aired on April 5, 2020.
____________________
đ EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
THE CURRENT | Rethinking Climbing Technique and Movement Skills
TAPED TIPS | Difficulties Should Be Desirable
TAPED TIPS | When Beta Isnât Better
BOARD MEETINGS | Common Sense vs. Common Practice
Josh Waitzkin on Beginnerâs Mind, Self-Actualization, and Advice from Your Future Self | The Tim Ferriss Show
The Art of Learning: An Inner Journey to Optimal Performance by Josh Waitzkin
____________________
đ SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
____________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
____________________
đCHAPTERS
(0:00) Theme
(0:37) Intro
(2:29) Topic Description
(4:09) New Feedback Paradigms and Opportunities
(8:28) More Feedback isnât Always Better
(12:00) Observation and Building Awareness
(17:07) How Routesetting Helps Understand Movement
(19:26) When the Poetic Perfection Has Been Marred
(24:03) Unexpected Learning From What You Deem Not Useful
(32:15) The Thematic Elements of Climbing Movement
(39:58) Self Expression via Movement
(43:29) Reps Hidden in Plain Sight
(51:22) The Ultimate Way to Get in High Quality Reps
(55:24) Hidden Reps We Often Miss
(01:02:14) The Gap in Our Confidence
(01:05:35) Comp Boulders and Discomfort
(01:08:10) How the Best Climbers React to Discomfort
(01:10:35) Setting Hard Things for Yourself
(01:22:41) Put the Wrench Away
(01:13:54) Outro
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Rob Gray is an Associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. Heâs also the author of two great books, How We Learn to Move and Learning to Optimize Movement. In this Part 2 of 2, Kris and Rob discuss the differences between the two predominant theories of skill acquisition and adaptability â Information Processing and Ecological Dynamics â and how climbing coaches can use the Ecological framework and the Constraints-Led Approach to help climbers better learn to move.
____________________
EXPLORE FURTHER
Our entire movement skills resource library
Coaching for Mastery course mentioned in the episode
Follow Rob on Instagram
Check out The Perception & Action Podcast
Check out Rob's books:
How We Learn to Move: A Revolution in the Way We Coach & Practice Sports Skills
Learning to Optimize Movement: Harnessing the Power of the Athlete-Environment Relationship
____________________
SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
____________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
____________________
CHAPTERS
(0:00) Intro
(2:00) Guest Introduction
(2:52) Topic Description and Movement Theories
(7:25) Why Rob Switched Sides
(9:44) Key Differences in Coaching Methods
(11:38) ANNOTATION: Poking Holes in Information Processing
(18:38) ANNOTATION: Dribbling Around Cones, System Boards
(20:38) The Constraints-Led Approach
(23:18) T.W.I.T. Coaching
(25:55) ANNOTATION: Kids Climbing Things Example
(28:50) ANNOTATION: Constraints Example in Climbing
(30:23) Perception and Action Coupling
(33:02) ANNOTATION: Systems Boards are Poor Skill Builders
(35:03) How Does Previewing Beta Fit?
(37:25) ANNOTATION: Technique vs. Adaptable Skill
(40:45) Wrap Up
-
Rob Gray is an associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. Heâs been studying movement and publishing research on it for 25 years. In this Part 1 of 2, Kris and Rob discuss the limitations and challenges of using sports science research for coaches and practitioners, as well as some ways both coaches and researchers could do it better.
____________________
EXPLORE FURTHER
Our entire movement skills resource library
Coaching for Mastery course mentioned in the episode
Follow Rob on Instagram
Check out The Perception & Action Podcast
Check out Rob's books:
How We Learn to Move: A Revolution in the Way We Coach & Practice Sports Skills
Learning to Optimize Movement: Harnessing the Power of the Athlete-Environment Relationship
____________________
SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
____________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
____________________
CHAPTERS
(0:00) Intro
(1:31) Guest Introduction
(3:20) Topic Explanation
(5:18) Accessibility
(6:13) Impenetrability
(7:33) Generalizability
(8:43) ANNOTATION: Donât Discount Small Studies
(10:49) Researchers Asking the Wrong Questions
(11:49) How to Make it User Friendly
(19:34) The Value of Case Studies
(22:19) Studies Lack Real World Variables
(24:23) ANNOTATION: Functional Movement Variability
(26:44) What is it We Should be Looking For in Studies?
(30:49) Coaches and Researchers Meeting in the Middle
(33:48) Limitations of Using Studies From Other Sports
(37:24) ANNOTATION: Constraints and Self Organization
(40:54) âEvidence-Basedâ Elitism
(43:27) Wrap Up
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Introducing: Something new. Something different. Something FOCUSED.
Rather than doing what most podcasts do and jumping from subject to subject with each new episode, weâre going to be spending the next couple of months focused on discussing one topic. Through Board Meetings, Expert episodes, Taped Tips, and our new Builder series that youâll hear more about later, as well as on Youtube, Instagram, the blog, and the newsletter, for the next 10 or so episodes weâre going to be digging deep into movement and skill acquisition: the research, the theories, anecdotes and experiences, and of course, practical application. And Patrons will be getting bonus episodes on the same topic. At the end of the two or so months, weâll wrap it all up with a podcast episode and a newsletter.
Weâre aiming for 3 or 4 of these FOCUS periods this year; we hope youâll tune in to see how it goes.
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EXPLORE FURTHER
Mentioned in this episode:
Board Meetings | Improved Learning from Podcasts, Books, and Videos
Taped Tips | Connect the Dots
Written In Stone
Movement Practice Resources
The Current
You might also enjoy these related episodes:
Board Meetings | The Art of Learning Climbing
P.O.E. with Will Anglin & Rowland Chen
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SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
____________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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Indoor and outdoor climbing have different constraints, and as such, lead you into different solutions for how to interact with that environment. But there are lessons from the climbing gyms that should absolutely be applied to outdoors in order to get the most out of it and become a better climber faster.
In this bonus episode from our Patron feed, Kris and Nate discuss 3 of their Top 6 Indoor Lessons. To hear their 3 favorites as well, you can get those bonus episodes on Patreon or in your Apple Podcast Feed or on Spotify by subscribing to the We Scream Like Eagles Podcast.
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EXPLORE FURTHER
You might also enjoy this related episode:
BOARD MEETINGS | Top 4 Ways to Transition to Outdoor Climbing
____________________
SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
____________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
____________________
CHAPTERS
(00:00:00) Introduction
(00:01:24) Topic Explanation
(00:07:13) Be Picky About Projects
(00:15:11) Below Project Level, Climb Everything
(00:27:51) Climbing With and Around Crowds
(00:35:30) Become a Patron to Get the Top 3. Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
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Many people view indoor climbing as less serious than climbing outside, but if we're looking to improve, that may be a mistake. There are aspects of climbing outside that lead us into learning specific things that we don't necessarily find as easily indoors.
In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss their top 5 lessons from climbing outside that, when taken indoors, can help us become better climbers faster.
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EXPLORE FURTHER
Check out our Proven Plans to jumpstart your intention indoors.
Check out the Comment Card blog post mentioned in this episode.
You might also enjoy these related episodes:
BOARD MEETINGS: Top 4 Ways to Transition to Outdoor Climbing with Taylor Fragomeni
BOARD MEETINGS: How to Make the Most of a Board Session
____________________
SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
____________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
____________________
CHAPTERS
(00:00:00) Introduction and Topic Explanation
(00:05:55) Using and Practicing Better Tactics
(00:14:32) Bring Mid-Session Snacks or Food
(00:25:44) Go In With a Plan
(00:28:38) Power Company Proven Plans
(00:29:18) Set Goals
(00:35:47) Not Complaining About the Setting
(00:48:57) Outro
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With more and more information out there, it would seem that we can learn faster and better. But that isn't always the case.
In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss why learning is more challenging in our current environment, ways we can better structure our time, tools we can use for learning, and the changes we are making to this podcast and our website in order to make them more valuable learning tools.
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EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related episodes:
BOARD MEETINGS | The Art of Learning Climbing
Trevor Ragan | Fixed vs. Growth Mindset
____________________
SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
____________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
____________________
CHAPTERS
(0:00) Intro
(2:22) Topic Explanation
(4:27) MicroLearning
(5:39) More Content Isn't Better
(9:30) Actively Participating
(14:32) The Problem with Social Media Discourse
(18:54) What to Prioritize
(23:18) Entertainment vs. Education
(25:21) Find the Voices that Resonate
(32:43) Recognize the Biases
(39:56) Follow the Topic
(43:25) Just in Case vs. Just in Time
(50:03) Learning from Video
(58:23) Shape the Algorithm
(1:04:04) Create Playlists and Saved Folders
(1:06:01) Taking Notes and Making it Stick
(1:10:00) Don't Forget the Past Information
(1:12:00) Writing About What You've Learned
(1:17:35) The Things We Are Changing
(1:35:38) Outro
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Two of the legendary routes from the 90s are now at odds with each other (sort of). One of them was likely the first 9a in the world, but which was it? Hubble or Action Directe?
In this bonus episode from Written In Stone, we examine the circumstances, discuss where the debate began, and hear from the only two people in the world who have climbed both routes â Alex Megos and Buster Martin â to try and decide once and for all...
...which route was really the worldâs first 9a?
Cameos by Adam Ondra, Steve McClure, Ben Cossey, and Ben Moon himself.
This is an episode of Written In Stone: Climbing's Most Important Ascents, the latest podcast from Power Company Climbing & Plug Tone Audio.
Find more episodes everywhere you get pods or learn more at: www.plugtoneaudio.com/written-in-stone
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
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